November 4, 2011
Uzes to Sommieres: a soggy day
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WEATHER: heavy clouds, heavy rain
It rained heavily overnight, but was only showering in the morning. The online weather forecast was for more storms and showed an orange alert for the Sommières region (not quite so bad as red). Our B&B host assured us that the worst was probably over and said there had been no reports of flooding on the radio that morning. We decided to go for it and ride to Sommières as quickly as possible.
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We set off in a drizzle, stopping at a boulangerie to pick up emergency rations. The terrain was rolling with moderate hills, but nothing too challenging. We saw many flooded fields and in places the road was covered with mud where it had been flooded. The dark clouds were threatening, and we didn't dally as we crossed the Gard river in Moissac. The roiling water was very high and muddy, and we wondered what it would look like today downstream at Pont du Gard. We headed south through Saint-Genies-de-Malgoires, and the rain held off until just before the village of Saint-Mamert-du-Gard, where we spotted a roofed porch and bench in front of the post office. We needed a snack because it was still 15 kilometres to Sommières and lunch. The rain increased in strength as we quickly ate our quiches, and it didn't let up for the rest of the ride.
Just as we reached the arched entrance to the old centre of Sommières, the rain stopped and the sun actually came out for a few minutes and illuminated the cobbled picturesque streets. We were relieved to have reached our destination unscathed in spite of the dire forecast, and soon found a cute little bistro where we enjoyed a very nice late lunch. The menu du jour offered leek beignettes with salad for a first course, then perch in puff pastry, and lingonberry tarte for dessert.
After lunch the rain started again as we headed for our chambre d'hôte and discovered an unanticipated problem. Eva books all the accommodation from home before we start our trip, and we are careful to check out the location of each hotel or B&B on Google Earth to make sure it's convenient and close enough to restaurant options to be able to walk to dinner. This chambre d'hôte appeared to be about a half kilometre from the bridge leading to the centre, but when we cycled out that way, there were only farms and private homes. We returned to town and rode to the tourist office to inquire about the exact location of the chambre d'hôte, and discovered that it was actually about three kilometres outside of town on the road to Montpellier--too far to walk into town, especially in the rain. Instead we opted for a room in the only open hotel in town at the old train station.
The heavens opened just as we parked our bikes at the hotel, and we were happy to get settled indoors. The rain continued for the rest of the afternoon and evening, at times heavy. When we walked into the centre for dinner, we noticed that almost all the restaurants were closed, even though it was Friday night! The only open place we could find was an Alsatian restaurant where we had a very good dinner, and the waitress explained that they were open because her husband was the cook and they lived upstairs. We were the only people there. The residents of Sommières seem to take their weather seriously! On the way back to the hotel the lightning started and lasted most of the night.
Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 741 km (460 miles)
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