Around Lyon: no cycling

November 16, 2011

WEATHER: foggy in the morning, then clearing

Today would be our last full day in France before flying back to Canada tomorrow. Since the weather had been grey and wet during our earlier stay in Lyon, we were looking forward to visiting the Roman theatres again, this time in sunshine, predicted for today. We set off after breakfast across the two bridges over the Rhone and Saone rivers in heavy fog, which we hoped would lift soon. The walk through the old city to the theatre was quite steeply uphill, and we thought we might be above the fog when we reached the highest point, at a viewpoint next to the Basilica. Unfortunately the fog still obscured the view of the city, which should have been quite spectacular.

We made our way over to the two Roman theatres, which are open to visitors with no gates or admission charges. We hadn't actually walked through them on our previous visit in the rain, but had viewed them from the museum, which has large windows overlooking the site. We were practically the only people there, and it was interesting to revisit these ruins after having seen so many others in the south. The sun began to burn the fog off while we were exploring the theatres.

The larger of the two Roman theatres built into the hill on the west side of the Saone.

A freighter heads up the Saone through Lyon.

It was almost noon, and we walked downhill across the Saone river to a cafe in Presqu'ile where we had eaten once before, and had an excellent lunch of filet de lieu (a firm whitefish) with sauce homard (lobster) a squash timbale, and mashed topinambour (Jerusalem artichoke) with a pear tart for dessert. Lyon is known for its good food and this small neighbourhood cafe was a fine example. While we were eating the skies completely cleared and we looked at each other, both thinking the same thing: "Let's hike back up to the viewpoint so we can see the city in the sunshine. After all, we'll be sitting in planes all day tomorrow, so it would be good to get the exercise."

This time we found a different route up that included at least 1000 steps, and our efforts were rewarded by somewhat misty views of the city of Lyon. Another long walk downhill brought us back to our B&B, where Al took the bikes apart and packed them into their suitcases, while Eva organized the rest of our luggage. We would have an early start tomorrow, and wanted to do as much ahead of time as possible.

Looking down from the viewpoint near the basilica.

Part of the Occupy Lyon demonstration in the square near the opera house.

In the evening we took advantage of another recommendation from Therese and Olivier and walked back to Presqu'ile for dinner at a typical Lyonnaise bistro, Le Bouchon des Filles. We had an excellent meal of various salads, marinated lentils with a smidgeon of fois gras for starters, then the best quenelles de brochets we have had in France. Quenelles are a specialty of Lyon---ground pikefish mixed with choux paste (the dough used for cream puff shells), formed into small rugby ball-shaped delicacies; then poached and served with various sauces. A very pleasant day, and a great way to finish off our trip.

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