To Bonasolla

June 4, 2023

Staying close by the sea on the last days of our tour seemed like a good choice for us. Our motivation for taking on more strenuous rides was about done and sitting in the sun taking life easy was calling us. We thought of it as having a nice dessert at the end of a big meal. Something sweet to leisurely enjoy after all the other courses have been completed. We could think of no better dessert than a couple of sunny days on the Ligurian Sea.

Today we travelled less than 20 kilometres just beyond the Cinque Terre villages to the small seaside town of Bonassola. To ride our bikes out of Vernazza to Bonasolla would require a steep 600 metre vertical climb, so that was not even seriously considered. Instead we took the regional train two stops away to Levanto and then cycled the final four kilometres to Bonassola.

Vernazza piazza from the previous night.

We were concerned that the train station might be really busy again today but there were very few people for the 9:15 departure.

The La Spezia to Levanto regional train line is a very good way to get around the Cinque Terre but the ferry is a bit more fun.

Levanto is a fairly large town with a much less touristy feel than the Cinque Terre villages. The streets were full of interesting shops including bike shops, fruit and vegetable markets, and bakeries. We wandered in and out of the shops, picking up some fruit and last minute souvenirs. We were not in any hurry as we sat on a ocean side bench and had a snack. It is a pretty area and full of large groups of hikers heading off into the hills somewhere. You can hike from here back to Monterossa on a challenging 8 km trail. But our legs are a bit sore from yesterday’s downhill slopes and we planned to stay on the absolutely fabulous old decommissioned rail network along the coast.

Some interesting shops selling tourist necessities in Levanto.

Large groups of hikers heading out along the streets of Levanto. The beach goers are heading in the other direction.

On our way to the first tunnel and the town of Bonassola.

And a bit spooky. There are very few pedestrians or other cyclists at times.

Between the tunnels there are often small secluded beaches.

Cycling into Bonassola we recognized that it is the seaside village that we have dreamed about. Quiet, wide open large beach area and a small approachable town. Checking into our hotel we immediately asked about extending our stay by another night and we were in luck, there was one room available. We snapped it up and even saved by booking directly. We stayed at the family owned Hotel Delle Rose and it was also perfect. Once again, the guide came through with what was a great finale to the tour.

Map of the area. The tunnels go through the headlands on either side of Bonassola making for about an 6 km ride. The bike path connecting the towns of Levanto, Bonassola and Framura opened in 2011 using an the old railway line that operated between 1874 and 1971.

We unpacked our rarely used beach attire and headed back into the tunnels to the small town of Framura. It was just another three kilometres up the coast and at the far end of the old rail line. The views of the coast between the tunnels are fabulous. We reached the end and made our way down to a small marina and then through the train station to a small hidden bay. It really was a beautiful setting. Scott went for a swim while Pat waded in the water. We were both really happy to have found this stretch of the Liguarian coast.

The openings provide great views of the sea.

A small protected marina in Framura and of course, Pat too!

Quite amazing to find the stairs to this beach down through the train station. You come out of a tunnel towards a bar and the beach is below. Scott enjoyed his swim here today.

Our vote for the best beach bar in Italy.

Without wanting to oversell this lovely beach spot, overlooking it, perched on the cliff above, is what maybe the best beach bar in Italy. Not that we have visited many, but this one has a perfect location. You can walk up and get a seat and the view is incredible. Okay enough, I know, but I have included a few pictures above to support my argument.

After a beer, we headed back into the tunnels and our hotel in Bonasolla. We had a bit more beach time there and made reservations at the Kantina restaurant for dinner.

Later in the day looking at the beach in Bonasolla. Very quiet town and a nice change from the crowds in the Cinque Terre.

For dinner, we shared the sea salad with octopus and cuttlefish and both had the spaghetti ai frutti di mare. With the cycling part of tour completed, It was our "end of the tour" celebration dinner. Dessert was a delicious ganasce al cioccolato. Not sure where the food photographer was tonight, but we only have a picture of the seafood salad. Afterwards we walked the quiet streets of Bonasolla and then called it a night. We were looking forward to another day in paradise tomorrow.

Today's ride: 16 km (10 miles)
Total: 879 km (546 miles)

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Scott AndersonYou make a convincing case. I’ve never heard of Bonasolla but it looks worth stitching into a plan. Nice that your guide came through for you this time.
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10 months ago

Scott FenwickWow - finally found a place that the Fenwicks got to before the Andersons! We are seriously considering a long term stay here. There is a lot to see nearby, some good hiking, swimming spots, riding up the hills behind the town also looks good - and not to mention it is on a train line. Good for a couple of weeks in a shoulder season?
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10 months ago

Barry DevlinGreat tour! We love Tuscany even more. Thanks for sharing!
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10 months ago

Scott FenwickBarry, thanks for following along. Just finishing up now. Be sure to look at the next day for a picture of one of your favourite past times.
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10 months ago

Kirsten KaarsooThis sounds like a perfect spot to end your trip. Enjoy!
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10 months ago

Rachael AndersonTo Scott FenwickGood job, the place looks wonderful!
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10 months ago

Rachael AndersonGreat decision to enjoy your dessert (easier riding) after all your strenuous riding! We made that decision early in our tour.
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10 months ago