A Day in Massa Marittima

May 26, 2023

Massa Marittima continues the string of beautiful Tuscan towns we have visited. As well, Marittima turned out to be a cycling mecca for both roadies and downhill riders. When planning this tour, Scott organized a day ride from Ride with GPS that would take him out into the hills beyond the town. Pat would enjoy the wonderful town sights while Scott rode up and down the hills without the weight of panniers on his bike. Always a treat! Slightly regretful, Scott also came to realize that a day off would be good for him, too. Together we both had a very very lazy day letting our bodies and minds rejuvenate, and there really could be no better place to do it than at our lovely AL B&B 32 in Massa Marittima!

The breakfast at AL B&B 32 was very good and included three homemade cakes. If you are going to eat cake for breakfast - eat good cake!

Timing was also good as we have pretty much reached the end of our detailed planned route and hotel bookings. We needed to examine the next 7-10 days carefully to organize a route back to Milan. We are getting close to the Mediterranean and the area will be getting busier with people and traffic, making route finding and future bookings more of a challenge. As a result, we spent a good part of our morning in this pursuit. It seems to take us a ridiculous amount of time to complete and we are finding that this task is much easier done sitting in front of our big computer monitors at home than on our tablets and cell phones.

With our next several days organized, it was time to give Massa Marittima a closer look. The history of Massa Marittima is closely linked to the silver, copper, pyrite mines exploited since the early metal age and then especially during medieval times. Our walk began at a fresco depicting the tree of fertility. From the web, ¨In 1999, during the restoration of the source, under a layer of plaster came to light a fresco depicting a large tree from which twenty-five phalluses hang and two women squabble to collect them. According to the main interpretation, the fresco - dated between 1265 and 1335 - had an apotropaic function, that is to say a good omen for abundant harvests.¨

Interesting tree, a new meaning for strange fruit?

Carrying on to the Piazza Garibaldi, we visited the Cathedral of San Cerbone. The piazza is the center of Massa Marittima and the focus of all their celebrations.

Stained glass window over the main entrance.

After the Piazza Garibaldi, we continued to walk and around the streets toward the upper part of Massa Marittima. This area had been completely taken over by a two wheel rally of another kind - vintage motorcycles. There must have been close to 100 different vehicles taking part in the Motogiro d`Italia 2023.

THE 32nd EDITION OF THE “HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT OF THE MOTOGIRO D’ITALIA” STARTS FROM PISA ON MONDAY 22 MAY

200 competitors from all over the world engaged in the gran Fondo of vintage motorcycles – six stages – 1500 km, almost all in Tuscany – in the centenary motorcycle race.

Revving of poorly muffed engines and the smell of pure gas fumes filled the air. It really was quite a spectacle! It seemed that no two machines were the same and many were 60 years or more years old.

The other kind of two wheel racing machine was also very popular in Massa Marittima. This comfy looking seat was pure steel - likely of the titanium variety.

Scott's gnocchi in pesto and tomato sauce.

Gelato on the Cathedral steps in the evening sun.

Children rehearsing their performance for Sunday's Balestro Del Girifalco. They do quite a complicated dance with the flags - waving and tossing them to partners and up in the air!

On the fourth Sunday of May, history lives again thanks to the Balestro del Girifalco, a crossbow shooting competition. It would be quite the event to see but we will be long gone by Sunday.

A picture of the crossbow shooting from the web.

We had an excellent day off the bikes and feel rested. Tomorrow we are back on the move - heading west for a short ride to Suvereto.

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