Santa Cruz County, to Tubac

March 6, 2023

This morning we’re driving south for a two-day ride to explore Santa Cruz County and learn a bit about its history. The original idea was a self-contained trip with a night camping out at Patagonia Lake. That plan fizzled when we saw the overnight lows barely breaking 40 here in the high desert, then morphed into a couple of cushy nights at a Bnb in Rio Rico. Our little travel trailer is several notches above camping, but after 5 weeks in the RV, a full kitchen, laundry, normal-length bed, big screen TV and a bathtub check all my boxes for luxury. It's pretty much the opposite end of the bike touring scale from a self-contained ride. We're good with that.

Considering the ground we’ve covered the last couple days – a trip around the Loop Saturday and 16 miles on the trails Sunday, we’re in good shape. Nothing hurts. While Barry is not super excited about getting back on the bike today, he shrugs affably when I promise to revisit the program for rest days.

Leaving the car near our lodging we pedal out on the Rio Rico bike path north towards Tubac. The path is a little bumpy, but it's pretty with yellow flowers spreading here and there. When the path ends at Palo Parado we continue up Pendleton Drive where the road is deserted.

The Rio Rico bike path runs through town for about 2.5 miles.

On the map, Santa Gertrudis Lane is a short run west from Pendleton to Tumacacori National Monument. In real life, its a gated private road. Ah, so this is why RidewithGPS didn't want to map me through here.

I compound my error by venturing further north on Pendleton until Barry checks the map again and sees this road won't take us where we want to go either. Keep this up and I'll lose my routing gig. Oh well, our ride today is relatively short, a extra few miles won't hurt us. Backtracking to Palo Perado we find our way up to Tumacacori on the I-19 Frontage Road, which is well away from the highway and pretty nice as service roads go.

I thought RidewithGPS was just being difficult when it didn't want us to go this way.

The Santa Cruz River at Palo Parado Road.

Tumacacori National Monument is a neat place to learn about the indigenous people who farmed the land here before the Spanish came, and the missionaries who colonized the region. The first mission in Arizona was founded nearby on the east side of the river by the Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino in 1691. He went on the next year to start Mission San Xavier del Bac in Tucson. In 1751 the Tumacacori mission moved to the present site west of the river.

Inside the mission, which was never finished. The inhabitants abandoned it in 1848 following raids by the Apaches, and moved to Mission San Xavier del Bac.

Four miles further up the road we turn right for Tubac Presidio State Historic Park, where the Spanish built the first fort in Arizona in 1752.
Unfortunately the park is closed on Mondays, another planning gaffe. I am on a roll today.

Besides the archaeological ruins of the fort, I read that the park preserves the second oldest schoolhouse in Arizona, the press that printed the first newspaper in the state and more historic buildings. We'll add it to the list for another time and check out the other charms in Tubac.

I earn back a few points for the day with lunch at El Barrio Kitchen. The tacos are extra delicious and they'll bring them out to you on the plaza.

An artist colony, Tubac is a fun town to pedal around.

There's some good shopping to be had here for art, gifts, whatever you're into. Good thing I can't tote around anything big on the bike. I did find room for some artisanal chocolate. Priorities.

Turning back for Rio Rico we pass by farms and ranches. Barry's getting antsy with my pace and I'm glad when he takes off. Ride your own ride baby. Later he tells me about a herd of cows that crossed the bike path in front of him. After they passed and he got going again one of the cows ran along with him for awhile. He was a little unnerved.

Back on Palo Parado east of the river I stop by a sign for the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail. In 1774 De Anza, a Spanish military officer, departed from Tubac to find an overland route from Mexico to California. The next year he led 240 people on a second expedition that resulted in the establishment of a mission and Presidio at what would become San Francisco.

To me, riding a bike through this region is an ideal way to contemplate this historic journey and others made here through the centuries, as travelers steered by the same river and the same mountains we're following.

The Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail runs 1200 miles from Mexico through Arizona and California to San Francisco

It's check in time when we get back to our lodging, which is charming, spacious and well-equipped. Barry heads to the grocery for some pork chops to grill, earning many points. Glad to have a couple nights here.

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Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 561 miles (903 km)

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