February 28, 2016
Highways & backroads: Highway Police station corner of 3086/3480
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Dinner last night and breakfast this morning came courtesy of a 7-11. They have everything you need to survive: an ATM, a one baht weigh yourself machine, cool drinks and heat & serve meals. It will do in a pinch. Breakfast was a coconut custard filled pastry. Plus two mandarins for the vitamin C.
By noon I had pushed out 44 km, all of it into hot headwinds, all of it on a busy minor highway. I take refuge at a roadside coffee stall and rest until about 2:30. At some point after I resume, I decide to take a series of minor roads and dirt tracks just to get off of the highway and onto something a bit more relaxed. I couldn't call it a short cut, as it was slow going and involved dirt tracks and hills and I end up back on the same highway. At one point I'm passed by a noisome group of pre-pubescent teenage boys on motorcycles, about 3 or 4 bikes and about 3 or 4 boys on each bike.... As they pass heading in the opposite direction, from a safe distance one of them shouts, "fuck you." The others laugh and repeat the refrain as they fade off into the distance.
It turned into a steep dirt track another 200 metres down the road and eventually came out at a village and another through road heading north.
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It' late and I've had enough for the day. The next town with possible accommodation is 30 km away and beyond what I can do in the remaining daylight and there is a hill between me and it. I pull up to a small eating establishment that looks like it is closing down for the day. They motion for me to come in and I ask them if they can cook me a delicious Thai meal.
I love Google Translate.
Over the conversation during the meal I ask if there is any accommodation in the town, or within 10 km of the town. The reply is not what I want to hear: 30 km and over the hill to Don Chang. At that point the teenage son comes in, happily introduces himself in broken English and tries to walk off. We're having none of that, family included. So in English, I ask him if there is anywhere I can camp. They all consult and together decide that I can stay at the local police station, corner of Highways 3086/3480.
It's only a few metres away and I wander over there, thinking I'll talk to the local officer on duty. It's completely empty. No one on duty and it looks like there seldom is anyone on duty. It's more of an open air police box than a station, somewhere for people to go to raise the alarm if there is a roadside emergency. It's getting dark, I'm wondering if anyone will show up and I wait... A local teenager wanders over with his little brother, who uses the toilet in the ablution block. He tells me, of course I can stay there the night - no problem. The building is open to the public, there is no glass in the windows, but a couple of the rooms do have doors that are locked. While I'm waiting for someone to show up, I use the ablution block and have a cold "bucket" bath - called a "mandi" in Indonesia. Scoop cold water over yourself, soap up and wash off.
I'm still waiting, it's dark out there and I'm sitting at the desk watching an episode of Game of Thrones. Finally a new pick-up truck pulls up and a guy dressed in only shorts and sandals greets me - the local policeman off duty who I'm guessing has heard someone has been making himself comfortable in his police station. He shakes my hand, welcomes me and says no I can not put my tent up in his police box/station; he will hear nothing of that - I have to sleep in the air-conditioned bedroom. With that he says, "Welcome to Thailand Mr Victor, I will see you in the morning," and drives off. There is no interrogation, no viewing of or photocopying of passports, no hesitation what so ever - just an open hearted welcome and a handshake that seals the deal. And wins my heart.
Early morning send off after a peaceful night's sleep at the local police station.
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The police station is mine for the night and I sleep soundly till morning.
Daily Stats:
* 70 km for the day
* 5.5 hours of riding
* Lost count: the kindness of strangers
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