November 5, 2023
Setenil de las Bodegas
We had a wonderful walk all over Ronda yesterday, but my brain has moved on to today's adventure. I have clawed my way back to being just one day behind on the journal, and the need for sleep has prevailed over my desire to pierce that ceiling. It's much more fun to write things up the same day, so I'll come back later to do a proper job on Ronda.
Setenil de las Bodegas was not on our radar until Kathleen Classen suggested a ride to the town where the houses are built into the surrounding cliffs. The pictures from their ride were amazing, and it's a good target for a day ride from Ronda. So that's the plan for today.
First, Barry is tackling the stuck handlebar problem on my Bike Friday. There hasn't been much time/space/inclination to deal with it since the bus trip to Granada over a week ago. It doesn't have to be fixed until we fold up the bikes for the train trip from Sevilla to Cordoba, but there's lots of space in the apartment here in Ronda so Barry is on it.
It doesn't take him long to find a fairly simple solution. Just loosen the clamps on the stem. That didn't occur to either of us in the heat of the moment, but there it is. When he pulls out the handlebar stem, the cause of the trouble is evident - rust.
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6 months ago
He has it greased up well now so that next time I can pull the handlebar out without messing with the clamps. That's good because it's rather fiddly to get everything tightened up again so the bar doesn't wobble. We'll have to do a more thorough cleanup on the rust at home. At least we know how to take it apart to get it home.
We have dawdled until 11:00 waiting for the mercury to break 50 degrees before riding out of Ronda. In terms of bike facilities, this city is unlike any other that we've seen in Spain. There aren't any. Maybe they're elsewhere in the city, but I haven't seen a single bike lane, path, sharrow, nothing. One motorist honks at us, I assume because we are riding in the street. That feels like home.
We claim our space for the ride out of town, and the good part starts. The road to Setenil is an entertaining scene of rolling hills, green fields, olive orchards, and fruit trees against the backdrop of the mountains. Winds are light and the sun warms us up.
In Arriate, "La Flor de Andalucia," we descend to the Arroyo de la Ventilla. After a missed turn in town a man points the way and says "Setenil?" How did he know?
From Arriate we climb back out for the final three mile drop into Setenil. The hills have been a nice workout, nothing like the slog of two days ago into Ronda. Cycling is fun again!
Setenil is a busy place today. We pass a lot full of tour buses on the way in to join the throng of Sunday afternoon visitors. We spend some time taking in the massive stone walls that loom over the cafes. Then we walk on a ways to get clear of the crowd and find a place for lunch with no wait and quick service.
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The climb out of Setenil is some work but not too much and the return to Ronda is just as enjoyable. Kathleen and Keith's CB post from their visit here last year has more amazing photos. Many thanks to K2 for clueing us in about this unique town. Cycle Blaze for the win!
Today: 23 miles, 2448 feet of ascent
For the tour: 783 miles, 52,468 feet of ascent
Today's ride: 23 miles (37 km)
Total: 793 miles (1,276 km)
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6 months ago