Cap de Formentor

October 20, 2023

A spectacular day

I’ve been anticipating today’s ride ever since we put Mallorca on the playing field for this trip. Cap de Formentor sits at the northernmost point on the island of Mallorca where the eastern end of the Serra de Tramontana mountains runs to the sea. The ride out to the lighthouse at the end of the Formentor peninsula is on all the must-do lists I read for Mallorca. Juicy details in Cycle Blaze posts from Anne Mathers, Ann Maher-Weary, and Eva and Al Walters sent it to the top of our list for the island.

As many as two hundred people worked on a difficult six-year project to build the lighthouse beginning in 1857. Just getting supplies delivered in the harsh terrain was a feat as they had to be carried up 272 steps carved into the rock. Construction went on seven days a week, drawing stern objection from the Bishop of Mallorca. He was mollified by the installation of a makeshift altar on the job site so the workers could go to mass on Sunday.

It's 10:30 by the time we get ourselves together and stuff the bikes, one at a time, into the tiny elevator for the ride down to street level. The sun has warmed things up nicely into the 70s, just a beautiful day for a ride.

Ready to roll out from our hotel without the bags, always a treat

On the waterfront bike path a steady stream of cyclists rolls past our hotel in the same direction we're going.

I have one errand on the way, to mail some postcards of the Park Guell dragon to the grandkids back home. Early on in the trip I sent them pictures of the dragon who guards the bridge in Ljubljana, Slovenia. With any luck we'll encounter more dragons on the journey.

Just before we get to the post office I discover my rear tire is flat, my first of the trip. Barry traces the cause to a slash in the sidewall that has opened a hole in the tube too big for the sealant to do its thing. I was so confident about the sealant that I'm only carrying one tube, which fails due to an unpatchable hole near the stem. Fortunately he can patch the original tube with the cut so it goes back into service.

We have lots of company with both cyclists and cars on the twisty road out to the Cap. Drivers are mostly tourists here for the same destination and everyone is fairly polite about sharing the road. The first hill starts right away, a two mile climb with a healthy 5% average grade. All the speedy roadies whiz by. We'll just take our time soaking in the scene.

We reach Coll de la Creueta at the top of the climb, 700 feet above sea level. A crowd is gathered at the pullout for the Mirador de El Colomer viewpoint. The parking lot is crammed with cars jockeying for a space in the parking. Even with the work to ride up here, it's more fun to get here by bike.

A unique monument to Antonio Parietti, the Spanish engineer who built the road we're on in 1925

Spectacular view of the rocky coast and the islet of Colomer

Several hiking routes start from the viewpoint

From here we drop down close to sea level again and start a longer, more gradual four mile trip up to the next peak. The sea is out of view for awhile but more lovely scenes surround us in the valley.

Our quest up the second climb is rudely interrupted by another flat on my rear wheel. This tube has also failed at the stem. It was fairly new, as was the one we threw away this morning. That must have been a bad batch. Barry donates one of the two 20 inch tubes he is carrying so we are down to one spare tube between us, not a comfortable situation. We'll have to look for more after the ride.

Coincidentally, Barry is not the only one fixing a flat here.

Continuing our ascent, we're always on a hill now, either up or down, but nothing too steep to handle. We wind around the switchbacks enjoying spectacular vistas around every curve until the lighthouse suddenly comes into view.

I read that cars weren't allowed this far but saw no barricades keeping them away. It's pretty busy out here.

Coming around another curve, I'm startled by the appearance of the white lighthouse standing 700 feet above the sea.

It might be low season but you wouldn't know that from the look of things here. A long line of cars waiting for a parking space barely moves. Now and then a driver gives up and executes a tight 4 or 5 point turn to exit the queue. Cyclists are all riding around them on the left side of the road. We follow them cautiously around the blind curves.

There wasn't much wind to contend with on the way up. Now it's wild out here on the point. We pick up sandwiches from the little food stop at the lighthouse and find a spot out of the wind to refuel, then start making our way back down.

Gorgeous sapphire water in the cove at Cala Figuera

Back down through the tunnel. We caught a lucky break from car traffic as we went through it in both directions.

I'm having too much fun on the descent to take more pictures. What a fabulous ride, exceeding all expectations. We are so lucky to be able to do this.

Back in Port de Pollenca, I count 14 bike shops on Google maps. This really must be cycling mecca. Most are bike hire outfits. We study the reviews to narrow it down to the ones known for repair services, hoping to find one with 20 inch tubes. Our first pick is Bike Island Mallorca. Besides repairs they also have cycle clothing. I'd love to find a souvenir Mallorca jersey.

Not only do they have two 20 inch Presta tubes, they have a 20 inch tire! My rear tire with the sidewall cut is looking worn in general so we spring for it. The width is 1.75 vs. 1.5 on the old one, hopefully that still works, and we're back up to three spare tubes. No Mallorca jerseys though, I'll have to keep looking. We head back to the hotel, with a stop for gelato to celebrate our wonderful day and good fortune at the bike shop.

Lengthening shadows cool off the beach as we enjoy our celebratory gelato.

Back in the room Barry gets to work on the tire. He swaps in the new one with his old spare tube and airs it up. We hear a whining sound, then BAM. Alas, that extra quarter inch on the tire size was too much. The tube has slid out of the rim and exploded in a spray of green goo. I think we've now trashed every tube I had put sealant in. At least Barry won't have to deal with that stuff any more.

Barry has more than earned his siesta so I leave him and ride back to Bike Island Mallorca to the return the tire, then hunt some more for one that's the right size. Wonder of wonders, I find a 20 x 1.5 tire on my second try at Bike Experience. No Presta tubes there though, or at the next two places I check. I'm all shopped out for the day. We'll have to look for extra tubes down the road, and a worthy jersey.

Barry gets out his fixit kit one more time and mounts the new tire successfully. It's ready for tomorrow when we'll continue our trek through the Tramontana mountains to Soller. Now that his brake is fully functioning and we both have good tires and spares, we should be good to go, right? Right?

Heart

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Today: 26 miles, 2,914 feet of ascent

For the tour: 479 miles, 28,606 feet of ascent

Today's ride: 26 miles (42 km)
Total: 480 miles (772 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	6

David MathersOh my word! You lucky devils … looks like it was perfection on two wheels out there today day on the Cap. Stunning photos, too. We will return to the cycling Mecca at PP one day.
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6 months ago

Eva WaltersThanks for this--the description and the great photos. We loved this ride when we did it, and it was great to relive the experience!
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamTo David MathersWe hope to return too David. It's seems to be popular with Cycle Blazers. It would be so much fun to score a meetup next time.
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Eva WaltersThanks Eva! I'm sure this is one of the posts I'll come back to again and again to remember the day.
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6 months ago

Keith AdamsRecurring tire problems... UGH. Apart from an actual crash, they're about the most certain way to ruin an otherwise enjoyable ride.
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamI'm happy to report that in the three weeks we replaced that tire and stocked up on tubes, we haven't had to use one of them.
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6 months ago