Barcelona: Picasso and the Sagrada Familia - Mar y Tierra Around Spain - CycleBlaze

October 17, 2023

Barcelona: Picasso and the Sagrada Familia

We spent so much time cramming as much of Barcelona as we can into three days that I have dug myself into a hole again with the journal. I  will try to keep this brief and get closer to writing in real time again. 

Tuesday started with a visit at the Picasso Museum. The collection here reflects his strong ties to Barcelona. We didn't take a lot of pictures, just enjoyed the audio tour of paintings from his formative years and works from later life. The most affecting portraits for me were those of people close to him - family, friends, girlfriends and wives. It was a wonderful morning.

My favorite portrait of Jacqueline Roque, Picasso's second wife and muse for the last 20 years of his life.
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A short walk from the Picasso Museum, these friezes designed by Picasso and executed by Carl Nesjar decorate the College of Architects of Catalonia in Placa Nova. They are quite a modern and arresting jolt in the Barri Gotic, near ancient Roman ruins and the medieval Cathedral of Barcelona.
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There are so many entertaining musicians busking in Barcelona's placas. These characters played in a raucous ragtime style. I was surprised by the piano; it must get a lot of wear and tear rolling around the streets.
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We didn't notice these delicate panels hanging near the Placa de Catalunya the night before. Their colors resonate with the reds and greens of the buildings around them.
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Lunch was an experiment - black rice with squid and shrimp at La Lluna near the Placa de Catalunya. Didn't love it - too much salt, but it's good to try new things.
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After the previous day's marathon of activity from morning into night, we managed to squeeze a little downtime into this day. A short siesta back at the hotel gave our backs and feet a break before our late afternoon tickets to the Sagrada Familia. 

Antoni Gaudi was a young man of 31 in 1883 when he was chosen to take over the design of the Sagrada Familia, the Church of the Holy Family. Only one facade, depicting the Nativity, was completed in his lifetime. In the middle ages it was normal for a church to take centuries to complete, but it's unusual in our time. Gaudi knew he wouldn't live to complete the church. He would say "My client (God) is not in a hurry." Since his death in 1926, five architects have carried on his vision. The push is on to complete the church by 2026, 100 years later. 

The interior is filled with naturalistic forms like trees and branches, and lit with brilliant splashes of color. The tour was very good as our guide seemed to very much enjoy her work. We took the short elevator ride up the Nativity Tower where you can see some of the work in progress, then walked back down the narrow spiral steps. 

My camera isn't up to the task of capturing the scale of what will be the tallest Christian church in the world at 564 feet when completed. It's just short of Montjuic, the highest point in the surrounding mountains. Gaudi thought nothing man-made should be higher than God's creation.
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The hard angular edges of the characters on the Passion facade are fairly terrifying.
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Inside, tree-like forms soar above the stained glass, creating a rain forest effect.
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Our timing was lucky. The clouds broke long enough for the late afternoon sun to light up the ceiling with color from the windows.
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A view from the tower. I didn't hear what the role was of these plant-looking shapes in the design. It looks like they are holding up a Communion host.
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A dizzying walk down the tower
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Last look back
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We've been off the bikes since the ride into Bilbao four days ago and are looking forward to getting back in the saddle tomorrow, on our last day in Barcelona.

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