Day 2: Reno to Loyalton, California

May 12, 2021

There seemed to be no other breakfast options, so I had breakfast at Mel's Diner in the casino. As long as I'm in a casino I had the traditional casino breakfast of chicken fried steak and eggs. Service was faster than last night, and I was on the road at 8:40. Pretty good after being up late last night.

5 AM twilight from my dirty hotel window.

Today's ride takes me north from downtown Reno through charming old neighborhoods. It was continuous uphill, often 8-9% grade. The hilltop is 800 feet higher than downtown. The route passes near the University of Nevada which is high in desert hills overlooking downtown Reno.

Most of the route is on Virginia street which roughly parallels the US 395 expressway. On the northern fringe of Reno I passed mile after mile of new and under construction warehouses. The rapid growth is the result of a monstrous new Amazon fulfillment center. It was all empty desert 5 years ago.

Nevada doesn't allow bikes on US 395 so I stayed on Virginia street when the pavement ended. The unpaved section has much more climbing than US 395. I pushed the bike up a 10% grade.

3 hilly miles of gravel to avoid US 395.

A hilltop on the gravel road has a good view looking north at the small town of Bordertown and a large dry lake.

Bordertown and a dry lake ahead. Most of Nevada looks like this.

In Bordertown I got on US 395 and promptly crossed into the state of California. I pedaled 8 miles on US 395 to the CA 70 exit. All divided highway with a wide paved shoulder.

Houses in Bordertown go right up to the California state line.

Then 8 miles west on CA 70, with moderate traffic. It climbs 400 feet to Beckwourth pass which is named after the first white settler in the Sierra valley. Not a prominent pass but it is a significant water divide. East of the pass is the Great Basin where all water evaporates. West of the pass is the Pacific ocean watershed even though the valley is east of the Sierra Nevada. Somehow water manages to get through the mountains to the South Fork Feather river.

Only a 400 foot climb, but it's the divide between the Great Basin and the Pacific ocean watershed.

Ahead is the northernmost part of the Sierra Nevada, where the Sierra Nevada range fades into the Cascade range. The mountains aren't as high and it's already beginning to look volcanic.

In the Sierra valley I turned left onto CA 49. I will follow CA 49 for 290 miles, all the way to Mariposa. I'm leaving Silver country and entering Gold country.

CA 49 has less traffic than CA 70 and US 395. I was happy to finally be on a low-traffic road again.

Beginning of a 300 mile adventure on CA 49.

The Sierra valley is a typical high desert farm valley near mountains. The climate is semi-arid but the surrounding mountains provide irrigation water.

The Sierra valley is east of the Sierra Nevada but water flows west to the south fork Feather river.

Loyalton is a ranching and logging town. Population 769 makes it the largest town in the Sierra valley but one of my smallest overnight destinations. Elevation is 4950 feet (1510 meters), the highest overnight of the tour.

Dinner at the tavern, the only restaurant open for dinner.

Tonight I stay at the Gilded Drifter Inn. I considered staying at the tavern but decided it might have loud vehicles and people shouting late at night. The historic house is guaranteed to be quieter.

Nobody wore masks at the tavern but the Gilded Drifter Inn is strict about guests wearing masks in public spaces. My room door is in the communal kitchen which was annoying. People frequently gathered around the coffee maker just outside my bedroom door.

The Gilded Drifter Inn cost only $70 but it has a shared bath, no A/C, no TV, and no breakfast. My room is the Zora room which is decorated with African art and pictures of an early 20th century African-American female author named Zora Neale Hurston.

My room has a west-facing bay window. It was very warm when I arrived at 4:30 PM. I enjoyed the evening shade in the back yard, waiting for the room to cool down. The yard has irrigated grass and 4 cruiser bikes for guests to use for free. Loyalton is small and flat, easy for a non-cyclist to explore by bicycle.

Back yard of Gilded Drifter Inn. Free cruiser bikes for guests to use.

Today was High Desert day, with the most arid landscape of the tour. It was sunny all day with a high of 80F/27C. No complaints.

I couldn't help but ponder how different tonight's home is compared to last night's home in downtown Reno. Variety is good.

Distance: 44.1 miles (70.6 km)
Ascent/Descent: +2349/-1606 feet (+716/-490 m)
Average Speed: 7.7 mph (12.3 km/h)

CaptionCutAdd line aboveAdd line belowDelete

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 98 miles (158 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	6
Comment on this entry	Comment	0