Day 13: Coulterville to Mariposa

May 23, 2021

I was away from the rural motel room at 8 AM. 3/4 mile downhill to Coulterville. The store told me yesterday that the restaurant opens at 8 AM. But they don't actually open the restaurant and store until 9. So I waited until they opened. Finally on the road at 10 after a hearty breakfast that needs to fuel me across the biggest river canyon of the tour. Today's route has no services.

Going south from Coulterville CA 49 promptly climbs 700 feet. Then a long gradual 1450 foot descent following ridges downhill to the Merced river. Continuous unobstructed views of the surrounding foothills, a glorious descent. Nearly all of the descent is through the burn scar of the 2500 acre Detwiler fire which started on July 16, 2017. Not much has re-grown after 4 years.

Riding the burned ridges south of Coulterville.

This part of CA 49 is a mountainous and very scenic road to nowhere. It's Sunday. I saw more motorcycles than cars. Very few trucks or motor homes. The northernmost part of CA 49 had exceptional scenery and low traffic. Finally the southernmost part of CA 49 also has exceptional scenery and low traffic.

Long gradual 1450 foot descent to the Merced river in the abyss ahead.

Merced river 300 feet below. CA 49 visible ahead climbing 1300 feet to a false summit.

The river is flowing now, but it's obvious that this area is a lake when a reservoir downstream is more full. I looked up the Lake McClure water level history and found that the lake was 67 feet higher this time last year and 89 feet higher the year before.

The bathtub ring is less pronounced looking upstream.

Merced river looking upstream towards Yosemite. Flowing now but sometimes a reservoir. The boat ramp is too short.

Merced river flowing downstream. Upper end of Lake McClure when the water is higher.

The bridge is not very high when the reservoir is full.

What goes down must go up. Is that right?

The gradual 1450 foot descent is followed by a steeper 1350 foot ascent with excellent views. The 6-7% grade isn't too exhausting.

This is the deepest river canyon of the tour but the views make it worth the effort.

View of river and road halfway up the big climb.

Best view of Merced river and CA 49 north of the river.

I took a long stop at the vista point at the false summit with a view of the bridge 1300 feet below. What an awesome route!

View from the vista point at the false summit. 1300 feet higher than the bridge.

A motorcyclist took my photo. Today I saw more motorcycles than cars.

Today's false summit is close to the actual summit. Only a gentle 50 foot climb to the summit. Then a descent, 600 foot climb, and 500 foot descent to Mariposa. Today's route is a roller coaster.

I stopped for a few minutes in the village of Bear Valley. It's an old gold mining village since 1848. Not much to see now.

Former cafe in Bear Valley. Don't know the purpose of the green tower.

I arrived in Mariposa at 3:45. Check-in at Mother Lode Lodge was fast and easy. I just grabbed the envelope with the key. The lodge is 2 blocks from the historic strip. The room is more spacious than last night's room, with A/C, TV, microwave, and fridge. The $169 price is the highest of the tour, definitely subject to the Yosemite Effect. Mariposa is on the main road to Yosemite Valley.

Low-tech touchless check-in at my motel in Mariposa.

Mariposa is very much a tourist town, population 1700. The downtown strip seems to be thriving.

The existing town site was founded in 1850. It was always a small town because of limited water supply. Mariposa creek runs dry during summer. Mariposa is Spanish for butterfly.

Schlageter Hotel, built in 1867 after the original hotel burned.

Mariposa is the southernmost town I see on the gold rush highway. CA 49 continues another 27 miles southeast to Oakhurst, but I'm not going there. Instead I will go west to end the tour in Merced.

Once again in Mariposa I feel like the only visitor who isn't going to Yosemite. Millions of visitors per year pass through Mariposa on their way to Yosemite National Park.

Today had beautiful sunny weather. High of 75F. That's plenty warm when climbing giant hills.

Most of the restaurants in Mariposa are closed on Sunday. I found a Mexican restaurant that was open, an easy walk from the motel. It was very good.

Today was a great day. Amazing scenery. Low traffic. Perfect weather. Another gold rush town.

Distance: 28.8 miles (46 km)
Ascent/Descent: +2868/-2747 feet (+874/-838 m)
Average Speed: 7.0 mph (11.2 km/h)

Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 404 miles (650 km)

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Kelly IniguezI hope you had a beer, or maybe two, after that giant climb!
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2 years ago

Wayne EstesIt did feel good to successfully conquer the last big climb of the tour.
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2 years ago