Easter Sunday in Enna - Sicilian Circuit - CycleBlaze

April 9, 2023

Easter Sunday in Enna

This was to be another rest day, plus an opportunity to see the Easter procession in Enna. We didn’t really want to be travelling on Easter Sunday, when pretty well everything in smaller-town Sicily is closed, plus it’s between two somewhat challenging ride days. 

We had a decent breakfast at our B&B. I would have liked some granola or muesli but we haven’t seen that for quite a while. I’m not a fan of ham and cheese for breakfast so made do with sweet stuff plus yogurt and an orange. Sadly, the pastries here aren’t up to the high standard we enjoyed in Piazza Armerina.

Eventually, after the morning off dissipated, we donned our sweaters, toques, and down jackets and ventured out to do a little sightseeing. There must be fabulous views from Enna when it’s clear, but today wasn’t that day. 

Calascibetta, a city across the valley to the north of Enna and similarly situated on a steep mountain.
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Looking east from the Rocca di Cerere. It’s a sheer drop from here to the green valley.
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Statue of Euno, who led the slave rebellion (the First Servile War) in Enna, won, declared himself King Antiochus of Enna, and reigned for 3 years.
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There were many banners of the local Confraternita Collegio SS Salvatore. This was the most common version.
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This gold one commemorates the 750th year of this particular confraternita in 2011.
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Another commemorative banner, in red.
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Lots of banners in this street, perhaps because the “clubhouse” of the confraternita is just down there on the right.
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The bell tower of the Duomo with its bells in a wrought iron frame on top.
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I thought these faces were a bit odd to be found on a church, especially the one on the left.
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Unfortunately, it wasn’t a day to get a light lunch either. None of the little grocery stores we had seen were open, the one open restaurant/pizzeria was serving only “menu di Pasqua”, and the open coffee shops only had sweet pastries and giant chocolate Easter eggs  (no matter their usual offerings).  Speaking of which, almost every second or third person we saw on the street was carrying a covered tray of pastries. 

At least we weren’t trying to ride to our next stop on empty stomachs. We returned to our room and amused ourselves until it was time to go stake out a viewing spot for the Easter procession, which was scheduled to start at 6 p.m.

We found ourselves a spot on the steps of the Duomo, having been told by Dario, our host, that the spectacle would happen in front of the Duomo. We and many other bundled-up people waited and waited. Finally, around 7, the bells began to ring and apparently things were underway. I, of course, couldn’t see much. Most of the photos below were taken with my camera held above my head, with the mobile screen tilted down so I could have some idea of what I was shooting. 

Some of the participants arriving a bit late.
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Confraternite members in various coloured robes waited along the sides, keeping the road open and waiting with the rest of us.
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Here comes Mary from the west. She’s a bit tilted because her bearers are running and she’s bouncing around a bit.
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Mary’s bearers are running toward Jesus coming from the east.
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The two statues meet, somehow Mary gets turned around, and they proceed together to the west entrance of the Duomo. It’s a slow process because they take a few steps forward then a few back.
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The whole thing is somehow controlled. Everyone’s face is showing today; the hoods are all flipped back—but you can still see the eye holes.
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And, if course, there was a brass band bringing up the rear.
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Once the procession had finally passed, we did not join the people heading into the church through the doors behind us to watch it enter through the other doors. We headed off to our dinner reservation at Bistro Paradisò, the restaurant operated by our host and his family, along with four B&Bs. They work hard, serving breakfast starting at 8 and still at the restaurant when we left after 10. 

Once again we shared everything but I only took a photo of the antipasto. Everything else got eaten before I remembered. 

The restaurant has a lovely garden but it was just too cold to even consider eating there.
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The antipasto.
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Rachael AndersonLooks delicious!
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