We have one more breakfast at the hostel and say our goodbyes to the people we got to know here: the Australian couple, the Japanese girl that speaks Spanish, the German girl and John & Kim, the cyclists.

From the Esmeralda on the waterside it's a steep climb up back to the center of town and on towards Ruta 5. We get there though even if it takes some pushing. The condition of the TransAmerican  has been deteriorating.

A couple of days ago we lost the shoulder and now it gets narrower and with potholes. Word is that it's going to be improved, but you can feel the road is getting to its end at the Southern tip of Chiloe.

The road is the hilliest on the whole trip across Chiloe, but its also the most scenic. We see quaint churches, little towns and a few lakes and sea arms. At about the 3pm we reach Quellon, a small dusty seaside town. We stock up at the local supermarket and ride another couple of km south of town to the closest campground. It's not all that great, but there are hot showers, little shelters and tables.

A pair of German BMW motorcycle riders are camped, awaiting tomorrow's ferry. Later also a small motor home and a solo English cyclist show up. Patrick quickly rides into town to get some beer, coke and eggs that we forgot earlier. 

We eat pork chops with potatoes and cauliflower.