May 13, 2025
Travel Day 3: Magic in Huaraz
What a great day we had! Turns out you can fly to a country where you don’t know anyone and have a very social day! Two magical things happened - our bike reassembly was smooth, and we met some fellow bikepackers.
The day started with a much needed sleep-in morning after a long 36-ish hours of travel. We woke up and got to work assembling our tandem. The state of our tandem determines our trip and the course of our day, so we had to make sure everything was in working order. Turns out it is way faster to unpack a bike than to pack one! We got everything unwrapped and assembled in about an hour. We are very happy to report that everything is in great shape! A huge relief. Thank you airport and bus luggage handlers for your great and gentle care!
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1 month ago
Erin has been doing a great job connecting with Peru Great Divide bikepackers via social media, and that effort paid off as we got to meet up with not one, but TWO pairs of bikepackers today in Huaraz. It is always such a treat to connect with other bikepackers and share stories about routes and about the adventures that move us. We are all out here pursuing a common goal — completion of the Peru Great Divide — and the energy for the route and for adventure overall is palpable. We often leave these interactions with a buzz inside of us, feeling inspired by the adventures of other bikepackers. The bikepacking community really is such a special one — it feels grounded in passion, kindness, and generosity. When you meet another bikepacker, it almost feels like you already know a big part of them, just from your shared experience of traveling - and often pushing yourself to uncomfortable places — on a bicycle.
Steve and Koos were the first Peru Great Divide travelers we met up with. Coming from Canada, they both recently completed the route from South to North — opposite of the traditional North to South direction. We met over a delicious coffee and breakfast at a cafe in Huaraz, as they shared stories about their time on the divide, including the most challenging parts (the dogs), and the most beautiful parts (the views, the solitude, and the warmth of the Peruvian people). Exchanges and interactions like these are mutually beneficial and meaningful. Steve shared how it was so fun to recount all of the details about their trip - both big and small. When one returns home from a trip like this, it is hard to capture the complexity of emotions and experiences in a short summary when someone asks “How was your trip?” Additionally, not everyone wants to hear whether you used one water filter or two, how many liters of water you carried, what you ordered for lunch in the small town halfway up the big pass, where exactly you wild camped, or which towns have ATMs. When we met up for coffee, we were eager to hear everything - listening with open ears as they reflected on their journey, our brains a sponge absorbing every detail. Since they just ended their trip, Steve and Koos were in need of bike boxes to fly their bikes home. Well guess who had an extra long bike box in great shape?!
After breakfast, the four of us walked together through the crowded streets back to our Airbnb. We continued chatting for a while as they checked out our assembled tandem bike. We gave them our bike box and a broken suitcase - both of which we had planned to throw away anyway before beginning our journey. Steve gave us his remaining alcohol for our stove. Such a wholesome and quite perfect exchange, highlighting the reciprocity of the community.
Later in the day, we took a practice bike ride to the local bike shop in town where we pumped our tires (the mini hand pump just doesn’t do it) and bought a CO2 canister. Once we got home, we put our bike away and headed back out into town - this time in search of groceries, Cipro (stomach medication), and cash.
Walking through the streets of Huaraz is vibrant. There are beatiful rugged, remote glacial mountains that peak out in the distance. There is a hustle and bustle to the outdoor markets downtown. Best of all, the streets are filled with an array of colors. The fruit and vegetables are layed out on beautiful big blankets. There is bright orange, yellow, green, pink and red! The women are often dressed in tall hats, beautiful shawls and dresses. We tried our first fruit today—oranges (peeled) and bought some bananas— or plátano for Erin who is practicing her Spanish. It was slightly hard to tell what was a plantain and what was a banana. We should find out tomorrow morning as we try to eat them…
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Later in the evening, we met up with a couple for dinner who will also attempt the Peru Great Divide, but they are doing a 10 day trek first so they will start about 2 weeks behind us. Over Peruvian food, we shared stories, hopes, plans and fears about what is it come and what has come in our lives. It’s fun to meet people from all over and share love for adventure and travel (and bikes!)
After packing our bike, getting a few more small dollar bills (soles) and eating yogurt and granola for dessert, we are headed to bed full of mostly excitement, some apprehension and a lot of gratitude for connection and community.
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"We often leave these interactions with a buzz inside of us, feeling inspired by the adventures of other bikepackers. The bikepacking community really is such a special one — it feels grounded in passion, kindness, and generosity."
1 month ago
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https://www.thepioneerwoman.com/food-cooking/recipes/a77725/whats-the-deal-with-plantains/
1 month ago