Pals to Sant Pere Pescador - Dreaming On - Over the Pyrenees - CycleBlaze

September 10, 2022

Pals to Sant Pere Pescador

Today’s ride was a lot easier than yesterday’s, which I think is a type of training where one alternates big climbing days with easier rides.  It was mostly flat and inland on dedicated biking trails and small roads.  The EuroVelo 8 passes through this coastal side of Spain and there is an extensive network of local trails, so we are seeing lots of of cyclists, but still only a very few with touring panniers.

Our first historical destination was the Roman bridge at Gualta, which has been carefully restored to show the original arches and the ruts of centuries of traffic on the surface.  While admiring the bridge, we struck up a conversation with a lovely cycling couple from Koln who are very familiar with this part of Spain having cycled here many times.  They said we must do the Santuari del Angels on our way into Girona so we are researching that ride.  We continued to skirt the massive, round hill topped by the Montgrí Castle and passed through Torroella, a pretty old town with an impressive church, before coming out to the coast again at L’Escala.  We picked up lunch at the grocery store and found a ideal picnic bench at El Portitxil with a view of perfect little cove with a beach.  Too full for a swim, we leisurely continued our way along a truly delightful section of coastal cycle and walking path with the turquoise water to our right and the ancient Empúries Greek and Roman ruins on our left.  

This part of Spain appears to have zones for different uses and the Sant Père Pescador area has all the campgrounds.  We must have passed five huge complexes before coming to the town.  This is a windy part of the coast so there were loads of kite and windsurfers, but the beach where we swam was marked off with an section for swimming only.  As it is Saturday night, the seaside hotels were all charging full price but we managed to get a better deal a few kilometres inland.  It made for a change of atmosphere to be in a town that seems as much an agricultural centre as a tourist town.  We ate a delicious supper at a simple trattoria on the pedestrian walkway where the waiter was glad to practice his English and said we were the first Canadians he had served!  

It was also our first night without air conditioning, but the temperature dropped into the low 20s and our room was on the 3rd floor so we slept with the windows open and enjoyed the night breeze, waking only for the 7am church bells. (Perhaps they don't ring all night).

Montgri castle way up on a hill that we spent the day riding around the base.
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Roman Bridge in Gualta
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Roman bridge showing the tacks of many wagons.
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Picnic lunch with a view of the water.
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Bike path near L’Escala
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Kite surfers at Sant Père beach
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This was just the appetizer course!
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Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 141 km (88 miles)

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Kathleen ClassenI have been reading each section of your travels along the Portugal coast the day before we do our ride. It is so very helpful. Thanks for the effort you put into your blog. Our experience along here was also amazing…different from yours due to wind and rain, but still amazing. We are in Porto Covo tonight.
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2 weeks ago
David MathersLooks like the perfect tour so far. We ended up staying in El Port de la Selva which we enjoyed.
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2 weeks ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Kathleen ClassenI hope we don't set you astray! We loved the coast of Portugal. I hope the weather improves for you. Your first days looked wonderful, blue sky and turquoise water.
Yes we are always reading other's blogs too in planning our routes and what to see, where to eat, all the important things! It is such a great community. I hope our paths cross sometime soon.
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2 weeks ago
Kathleen ClassenYou are leading the way, not sending us astray! The huge wind and rain today was unexpected, even though we knew it was coming and it was forecast for days. We just chose not to believe it! We have decided, since this weather has settled in for the next 10 days or so, to simply take our time and enjoy the dramatic skies and seas. At least it is warm.
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2 weeks ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo David MathersWe won’t make it to El Port de La Selva this time but yes so far so good. Thanks for following along.
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2 weeks ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Kathleen ClassenWow! Just read your post! Quite the rain and rain forecast. Reading about your day brings our day clearly into view. It is beautiful coastline. Yes take your time and enjoy. You guys are so good at connecting with people you meet. Awesome!
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2 weeks ago