June 6, 2023
Gioia dell Colli to Trani
We looked outside and triple checked the weather apps this morning and decided to hit the fast-forward button because the weather to the west, where we thought we would go next, is predicted to be worsening in the next two days. Thankfully we have the flexibility to do this (no booked accommodation). It meant we would not get to cycle this region or see Gravina but it opened some possibilities with more time in the Gargano.
A quick check on Rome to Rio app this morning indicated we would have several options to get to the coast by train from Gioia dell Colli. David booked a B&B in Trani for tonight so we had a destination to aim for. Our new plan was hatched and ready to roll by 9:00am.
We had arranged to meet Giancarlo, our host, at 9am to retrieve the bikes from his garage. He was there promptly at 9. We had eaten breakfast in our suite, so we were ready to head to the train station.
The streets were alive with activity this morning, quite unlike yesterday afternoon and evening. People were in the square, cars were bumping along the stone pavers and dogs were getting in their morning walks.
We rode directly to the train station and saw that the next train left in 7 minutes on binario 3 to Bari. Sure enough, it was sitting there. There was no ticket agent so David tried but could not find a way to purchase tickets that included bikes. The ticket machine indicated there were no tickets available that included bikes. Mysterious.
Meanwhile, I spotted a car with a huge bicycle sign on it. I told David I was headed that way and grabbed my loaded bike. No elevators here, so I heaved it under my armpit and ran down the stairs, across to bin 3 and then up the stairs to the platform with 3 minutes to spare. I shouted to David to follow me as I ran up to the conductor and explained we were unable to buy tickets from the machine. No problem he said, get on board. David emerged onto the platform just in time and we both jumped on board. Whew! It was a nice modern train and there was plenty of space for the bikes. We paid for the tickets when the conductor came by.
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The train trip was seamless and only took 30 minutes. It was quite the sensation to whiz through the countryside, a ride what would have taken us a whole day.
During the planning phase of this trip, I had a sense that we should avoid Bari, based on its size. But my impressions changed within a few minutes of being in Bari. The architecture of the three story buildings that lined the streets was fantastic and I would have loved to hang out for the day. But, we had work to do.In true Italian style, we took a coffee break before we set out for Trani.
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10 months ago
10 months ago
Along the Bari Coastline
After coffee, we headed north along the coastal road towards Trani. Bari’s neighbourhoods and light industrial sprawl carried on for a long way. Along the way were sandy beaches with a few sunbathers.
You always know when you are near a fish market and in this part of Italy, they are quite common. Fresh fish and seafood in general are staples. We passed a particularly large market on the outskirts of Bari. The boats in a marina next to the market.
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The ride through this area was a means to an end. It was a route that hugged the coastline and eventually went to Trani. Along the way we had to navigate between two airports. Traffic became more frenetic at that point and soon after that, our route came to an end where it met a swampy creek. The proposed route merged onto a freeway which was impassable for bikes. Not would we attempt such a thing, anyway.
After a couple of minutes of watching traffic, we decided to follow it along a goatpath of a road that passed under the struts of the freeway. It didn't look promising as it narrowed and the thick grasses encroached on the roadway, but we pushed on. The traffic came to a bottleneck when the road went under yet another bridge and took a sharp right uphill turn. Cars and trucks were u-turning and entering and exiting an even smaller footpath. It was mayhem and that told us we were onto something. When two recreational cyclists whizzed past, we stopped checking the map and followed the flow.
We reached Trani at about 3pm, just in time to meet our host Cesare at the entrance to his B&B. It was another beautiful place with a great host and it was just a half block to the harbour. A gelato bar beside the B&B was selling granitas so we dropped out bags and sat down to enjoy a couple of lemon granitas. Did they ever hit the spot!
Along the Trani Waterfront
We cleaned up and then went strolling to see the harbour area.
The fishermen were still on site selling today’s catch. If I could, I would add the sounds and smells here. It was like a traditional fish market where the fish mongers try to outdo one another as they a yell out what they had caught today.
It had rained for a few minutes after we arrived, just enough to get the nubbly stones wet and make navigating on foot a risky proposition. I’m posing on one foot below, arms out for stability just to show that it’s extremely slippery. Locals are accustomed to this but we tourists need to be vigilant.
I was surprised to find a typewriter museum next to the church. Unfortunately it was closed, but I would have liked to see it. Little did I know how Italian inventions had seeped into our lives all those decades ago. I can remember plunking away on our typewriter when I was a tike and the clanging of keys from the typing classes in high school. And, who can forget the ‘ding’ every time they did a carriage return?
This is a particularly beautiful church in Trani, built in 1100. We couldn’t go inside but we sure admired its gorgeous details from the outside.
Restaurants don’t open until 8:00 in these parts unless there are a lot of tourists around. So, instead we spotted a nice bar to have a drink and pass some time people watching.
Dinner tonight was at a traditional old style family restaurant. Our server was old school and loved his job and the food and wine he served. He had not a lick of English so everything was with gestures. I hadn’t tried risotto yet and really wanted to see how it should be cooked. It was delicious and, like their pasta, the rice was slightly al dente.
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 959 km (596 miles)
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10 months ago