In Montagnana

May 19, 2023

Rachael begins the day extremely frustrated by our lodging. I didn’t quite follow all the issues, but the gist of it is that she can’t make coffee because neither of us can figure out how to light the gas range, and she can’t get to some things she stashed in the refrigerator last night because after she did so someone locked the door to the kitchen and there’s no one around now to open it for her. And there’s more, but it probably needs her to elaborate. Perhaps she will. Suffice it to say that La Villa ranks very low on her list of lodgings for this tour and she’s glad we’re leaving this morning.

We’re not leaving the town of Montagnana this morning though. In an odd twist we’re staying here two nights, at two different places. This happened because we changed our plan and dropped Rovigo from the itinerary when Rachael noticed that we could bike from Ferrara to Montagnana in one day so we didn’t need to go out of our way to Rovigo first. After talking it over we decided that we’d be happier with a two night stay here rather than two straight moving days.

We did the same thing with Vicenza and Verona btw, dropping Vicenza from the plan in favor of a second night in Verona.

Which is a roundabout way of explaining why we’re staying two different places here in Montagnana. When we decided to stay a second night, we couldn’t find a place with a room available for both nights so we kept our original booking and added a second night here at La Villa.

Checkout at La Villa is at 10:00, and checkin at our apartment at Sotto le Mura isn’t until midafternoon sometime. Awkward. Rachael messaged our new host last night to ask if an earlier checkin was possible, and to our astonishment 10:30 was offered as a checkin time. Perfect, and amazing.

We’re a little late leaving La Villa, and it’s 10:10 when we’re outside packing up the bikes. It’s a pretty casual packing job because we’re only biking a mile, over by the gate on the far side of town. We’ve still got a few minutes to spare so there’s time to stop and admire the sweet cat dozing on the couch out front.

We arrive at our new digs right at 10:30, not really knowing what to expect or if we’ll really be able to check in so early. The cleaning lady is there though and is prepared to let us in until she sees the bikes. It looks like she’s not sure if they’ll be admitted, but she gets on the phone and calls someone; and when she hangs up the phone she shuffles a few things around and a space opens up by the base of the stairs. Perfect.

Short trip today. I’m pretty sure it was a mile, but for sure it counts as one if we round up.

Yesterday I held out hope for a bike ride out to the Euganean Hills. That sill looks like an excellent ride to be taken someday, but not today I see as the forecast has worsened overnight and showers are now predicted off and on all day long. Instead, we’ll each take walks. Rachael plans a longer one out in the country somewhere, while I plan on getting a good look at this exceptional town.

I’m first out the door, taking with me the only key to the inn. It’s the right plan, because I’ll probably be done first and if not I’ll be close by when she returns since I’m staying in town. I start by walking through the Padua Gate and then walking the northern half of the town walls.

The Walls of Montagnana have to be seen to be believed. Built in I believe the 14th century, it’s hard to believe they have survived complete and intact over all these centuries, complete with its 24 towers. Over the next half hour I walk the length of the town along the inside of its northern half, stopping to marvel at the long row of colorful houses built into the walls in some spots or the open, empty recesses in them at others, or to look up at the long row of towers.

The Vicenza gate provides access through the long north wall.

Looking past the Vicenza Gate along the north wall. We’re seeing half the length of this wall here, as it extends just as far in the other direction behind me.

I’m nearing the Legnago Gate at the west end of town when the phone rings. It’s Rachael, with a problem. In our hasty pack to leave our first room this morning she left her walking shoes behind. She called the host there and he found them and said he’ll leave them in back outside the door if no one comes back to pick them up before he leaves t noon.

I’m not far from the place which is just a few blocks the other side of the gate, so I head there now. I find the shoes, sit down to call Rachael to let her know, and when I do the sweet cat from this morning saunters over, flops down on the ground in front of me, and pins down my foot to demand attention. So I give him some.

The impressive doors of the Legnago Gate.

Rachael’s trapped at the apartment until I return with her walkers because she can’t walk comfortably with her bike shoes, so I head back. I take my time admiring the interior of the town on the way though, which in its own way is nearly as exceptional as the walls. The long main street through town between the eastern and western gates is almost completely lined with arcades on both sides, so you almost don’t need an umbrella to navigate most of the town when it rains. And the structures above them are all painted in different pastel shades, giving the town a lovely and very harmonious appearance.

Looking into town through the pedestrian ports of the Legagno gate. The closest of them is low enough that I have to duck my head.

The cathedral, with its odd clock with only an hour hand. One of my regrets from our stay here is that the prosciutto festival is on, and the piazza is filled with a large tent that messes up the sight lines for the cathedral and the other fine buildings facing the square. I’d like to return when we can get a better look.

Also facing the central square is the elegant Monte de Pieta Palace, the town’s first bank building.

In the arcade beneath the Monte de Pieta Palace.

For sentimental reasons, I think I admired the old movie house as much as any of the other fine buildings in town.

It must be nearing noon when I return to our apartment and hand Rachael the keys and her shoes. She’s off on her walk soon after, saying she’ll be back by two for lunch. She doesn’t make it even that far though, because not long after the rains arrive and set in for the rest of the day. Neither of us makes it outside again after that until it’s time for dinner, so I never get back to see the southern walls.

Which is fine. I know Montagnana exists now, and we’ll leave with multiple reasons to return someday. It won’t be surprising if we do come back in a few years. There’s so much to see in the region, and the gentle terrain is one that should still be accessible to these aging cyclists for a few years yet.

Today's ride: 1 mile (2 km)
Total: 1,256 miles (2,021 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	10
Comment on this entry	Comment	0