Sintra to Cascais to Lisbon

October 23, 2022

Closing the Loop

What a fabulous day we have had. The very, very best way to end a tour. We had variety in scenery, weather, riding conditions and the whole thing has left us wanting more. But first, yesterday.

Last night we did go walk about in Sintra, and it was amazing. The town was whisper quiet, tourist free and beautiful. Well, almost whisper quiet. We had seen the setting up for an event in front of the National Palace during the day, came around the corner and, well, it was so much fun.

The vast majority of people come here on a day trip from Lisbon. In the evening it was magic. Just us and the narrow alleys.

In front of the National Palace. What fun! We applauded, we took pictures, we were surprised.

As a former runner I can attest to how delicious this tastes.

We had seen them setting up. It never occurred to me it was a night time trail run.

We gave every finisher a round of applause.

First this morning of course, was breakfast. With two days in our very European B and B we met and enjoyed a couple from just outside Berlin, so it was lovely to sit and chat again before we went our separate ways. The sweet lady in the breakfast room remembered our coffee preferences, was happy to make the CN toast and was just great all round. Keith could have used a boiled egg, but other than that we were very happy.

The weather forecast looked good. Through all this rain it hasn’t been cold, just very wet (obviously). Today looked to be much better and we were so happy to be finishing the loop on our bikes. Off we went. The forecast was for no rain in the Sintra area until the afternoon when we would be long gone.

By the top of the hill we had to stop and remove our jackets. It was warm.

The next thing we knew we were hiding under tree cover and it was bucketing with rain and blowing hard. Just a squall I said. These things never last long I said. Still, out came the Goretex.

It didn’t last long, but we muttered about the weatherman and carried on, only to be smacked again. The second time we wheeled right onto the patio of a closed restaurant, best rain shelter ever.

Then, of course, the sun came out. By the time were in Cascais the sun was shining, we had forgotten all about the rain and were enjoying cappuccinos in the square where a market was going on. What a spot Cascais is. Absolutely stunning. We had lots of time and went for a good explore. The ocean was a sight to behold. We haven’t seen anything that dramatic and mesmerizing since Western Australia. It was breathtaking. Add castles, forts, architecture and we had our heads on a swivel.

There was an enticing bike lane. In the wrong direction of course, but we decided to go just a little way. You know how that works out, don’t you? One more corner, we kept saying. The scenery was beyond spectacular. We were captivated.

Who could resist this? Who cares what direction it was in?

I took this picture and asked Keith if he had noticed the change in the weather.

Oh my goodness. We jumped on the bikes, going in the direction of Lisbon this time, just as the skies opened up. A person couldn’t get any wetter if they were standing in a shower. It was crazy!!!! I stopped to put the rain gear back on, and Keith who scoffed at that, only lasted a minute longer. We peddled like crazy to the nearest shelter. To add to the ridiculousness of the situation, when I lay my bike down on the beach, unbeknownst to me the rubber bit at the end of the fender turned and created a perfect spout. Every time I went through a puddle, it poured water into my right shoe. I am embarrassed at how long it took me to diagnose the problem. I was also astonished at how much water a shoe can hold.

It was a wait five minutes and the weather will change kind of a day, and we decided it was time to get serious about cycling in the right direction. We had one more deluge, perfectly timed where there was an underpass below the rail line, and a six month old baby (and parents of course) to entertain me while we waited for the squall to pass through. There were a few times early on where we came close to being soaked by waves, and debris on the waterfront path from the waves, but it was a glorious ride. An absolutely glorious ride. There was one section through the suburbs that was less spectacular but then we popped out onto the waterfront again and we were on it all the way into Lisbon.

The gods conspired to leave us with this fantastic memory. It really was beyond what I have the superlatives to describe. What a way to finish a tour. The weather and the wind and the waves made things even more memorable. Before we knew it, things began to look familiar from our unloaded shakedown when we arrived in Lisbon, and we could see the humming bridge. What a bittersweet feeling. I wanted the day to go on forever.

The same window where we took our first reflective picture.

Then a moment for the ages. Keith had just said to me “We made it”. I told him not to jinx anything. We weren’t at the hotel yet. We carried on along the waterfront and he rode through a murky puddle. Oh. My. Goodness. In that puddle, waiting for an unsuspecting cyclist, was a deep hole. An unseen deep hole. I watched in shock as his bike came to an instant halt, his rear wheel actually left the ground, both feet disappeared up to the ankles in said puddle, and he somehow managed to keep upright. Barely. Think about the amount of weight on the back of the bike, and his rear wheel was off the ground. I am convinced that weight is what saved him from a very soggy experience. We looked at each other in shock, and then were alternately horrified and laughing all the rest of the way to the hotel. People around us were in shock as well. Keith says he didn’t go down because of his superior bike handling skills hehe. He also says he was very lucky he wasn’t clipped in at the time.

Can I just say it is always better to go around this sort of thing. As I wisely did. Imagine if I had been behind him. We both would have been sitting in it for sure 😳.

So here we are. We are feeling so lucky to have done this again. We are hoping for one more ride tomorrow, exploring Lisbon by bike, and then we will box them up and get ready for Wednesday’s flight. To finish with such an incredible ride had us conspiring over dinner about where we would like to go next. Speaking for myself, I have found this weather addictive. Except for the last five days we started every morning in the lightest clothing we have. I wore the same featherlight jersey virtually every day this tour because it was the coolest thing I brought. The sunshine and warmth were such a delight.

Then of course, today. Absolutely sublime. What a memory.

Did I mention largely downhill with a tailwind as well?

This Relive is mislabeled as a hike. Oops!

https://www.relive.cc/view/vwq1RkLEyBv

Today's ride: 69 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,820 km (1,130 miles)

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Sue SchragI will surely miss your daily journal entries, because some of us can only dream of making such a trip and you gave me a lot of wonderful adventures about which to dream. Amazing photos and descriptions! Thank you for sharing!!
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonI hope you have a wonderful last day! Both of you are amazing with how well you roll with the punches. I sure hope we get to meet up with you again!
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1 year ago

Keith ClassenTo Sue SchragHi Sue - your comments really made our day. Glad you enjoyed tagging along and brought you some joy. We often comment to each other how so fortunate we are to be able to do these tours. Thank you so much!
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1 year ago