September 12, 2022
Santo André to Porto Covo
Rain, Wind, and Dramatic Views
It was a dramatic day in many ways. We have been watching the weather forecast for a few days, and it hasn’t been good. Not for today, or the next few days. Wind and rain are to be our companions. Last night we decided not to book for tonight as we weren’t sure what to expect. I, for one, was sure it couldn’t be as bad as they were predicting. Except it was.
Breakfast was more than adequate and we left the hotel under a warm, dry and overcast sky. I felt justified in my optimistic view of the situation. It started to sprinkle, and still felt just fine. We were cycling in short sleeve shirts because it was warm, despite the rain.
Then, before Sines, the heavens really opened up. It was a very wet ride into Sines and I put my light windbreaker on. We were soon soaked to the skin. It isn’t our first experience with this so we weren’t too fussed about it. Once in Sines we stopped at the first café we saw and ducked under their umbrellas for an espresso and a conference. The wind was building, we didn’t know what the rain was going to do, and so we booked a room in Porto Covo, just 15 km down the road. Unfortunately, while doing this, I became very chilled. Unbeknownst to me, Keith had swapped out his totally drenched shirt for a nice dry one. How did I miss that change of clothes under the umbrella? Swooping down to the Sines waterfront just about did me in, and the rain started in earnest again.
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We stopped under a big tree and fuelled up while I got out my Goretex jacket. It was just what I needed to warm me up. When we carried on I even had the hood up.
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We stopped at a stunning surfing beach to watch the surfers and take a break from the rain and wind. We met the lifeguards who were having their first more relaxed day of the season due to the rain. Ricardo told us we were the two most interesting people he had met in months, riding bikes to see the area. This was just the shot in the arm I needed. What a compliment from a young person.
By now the wind was really strong, and directly against us of course, but at least the rain had stopped for the moment. Struggling against the wind and battling uphill was just what I needed to warm up. Off came the Goretex and along the waterfront we cycled. The wind was estimated at 20 knots by the CN, checking his Windy app (that is over 37 kph) with gusts to over 30 knots (56 kph) but felt like so much more as we struggled straight into it at 10 km an hour. We are mixing sailing speak with biking speak here, but suffice it to say it was one heck of a headwind.
It was spectacular. Just so beautiful, and all the wind was creating some dramatic scenes. We stopped in one spot to watch the waves. Keith went to take photos and I sat on a rock, buffeted by the wind, feeling like the luckiest person alive (or the craziest) to be out here now, doing this. When he came back I told him how lucky we are that we both enjoy a challenge. It was more a challenge for me I think…I seem to get blown about a bit more. Keith manfully took the lead up the next long hill and I drafted behind him. We kept stopping too. This is an amazing coast. The beaches are so beautiful.
At this point in my head I rebranded myself bad a#% old lady biker. A silly psychological trick but it really helped me along because it was getting difficult.
Once more, one of the beauties of bike touring was stopping anywhere to be awed by the views.
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At the top of the hill our hotel appeared. It is beautiful and we will be very comfortable. Oh, and for two nights!!! The slow show continues. Looking ahead at the weather we are in for a long stretch of this. Good thing we brought the wet gear. We will probably do shorter days until this front passes.
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Our room is gorgeous. The property is brand new, the staff are lovely, the bikes are secure and the first people we saw in the lobby were Marco and Danielle, the Swiss bike tourers. Great minds think alike, clearly.
We went to Italy for dinner and it was superb. We are back in our beautiful room with our little Bose speaker providing ambience and we are both so happy with how the day has turned out.
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1 year ago
1 year ago
Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 263 km (163 miles)
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Sorry about the foul weather! It’s scary when you get really cold so be careful. I hope the weather improves for you. My theme for when the weather or climbs are too much is “whatever doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger!
1 year ago