Sand and Scenery

September 15, 2022

Milafontes to Zambujeira do Mar

What a day. Such beautiful scenery, great weather, we met a lovely couple and have a beautiful room and a rooftop pool with a view to finish up.

Breakfast was adequate and filling. Not quite like the Porto Covo breakfast, but this is a small property and they did an excellent job. All the usual goodies and eggs made to order.

When retrieving the bikes from the garage we met Donna and Ross, much more seasoned Portugal travellers than ourselves. They are from Vancouver and come to Portugal often, renting bikes and doing day rides. It makes so much sense. They always stay at our sweet little boutique hotel when in Milafontes and we can see why. It was terrific.

We went our separate ways, and Keith and I headed out to the point for one last look. Such a beautiful spot. Then over the modern bridge we could see from the lookout and we were on our way.

You have to love cobbles as a road surface. They slow everyone down.

The highway had the super wide shoulder for a number of kilometres. It felt very safe. When it narrowed traffic had also eased off and the Portuguese drivers once more displayed patience and courtesy. We turned off at a sand and gravel road to head towards the Rota Vicentina.

Here is where our generous shoulder narrowed.

The surface after the turn was rideable on loaded touring bikes but with lots of washboard. We stopped after a few slow kilometres to discuss whether or not to turn around and bail. We were a bit concerned about losing our fillings or rattling our touring bikes towards some kind of breakdown. At that point we were under the impression that we would be on washboard until we came to the Rota Vicentina. We were both in agreement to continue and are so grateful we did. Very shortly after we were back on pavement until the coastal trail.

A bone jarring surface unless you are on a mountain bike. It didn’t last anywhere near as long as we were anticipating which was a huge bonus.

We went through two charming villages, one so tiny and untouristed it felt like a privilege to ride through. The other was Almograve, stopping at the beach there for our picnic. It was a spectacular setting. Once on our way again, while stopped for a navigation check, we had a hilarious encounter at the side of the road with a Spanish couple who were touring in the opposite direction. Some good laughs and encouragement. I told them I was a bit envious of them. They had electric bikes and a tailwind.

A small village we rode through. This is where the pavement reappeared.

We came across this rural scene which looked like incredibly hot and hard work. We couldn’t figure out exactly what they were doing though. It was a large farming operation.

They looked like they were pulling plants out of holes in the plastic onto the ground.

Then it was on to the coastal track. The Rota Vicentina is a long distance hiking trail and this section is doable on touring bikes. There were many large puddles from all the rain recently, and a few areas with deeper sand but it was easy to ride for the most part, and quite frankly so gorgeous I wouldn’t have cared if I had to walk the whole thing. Absolutely stunning. The pictures don’t do it justice. The cherry on the cake was running into Ross and Donna again for a trail side visit.

I told Keith the hardest part would be choosing what pictures to include.

If I could ride it anyone could ride it.

I would have pushed the whole thing. You are right beside the water.

We haven’t been making up the rain part of this week.

I am writing this beside our rooftop pool with a view that is amazing. We have a dinner reservation and there will be wine, so this may be where I finish for today.

More to come in the morning.

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 326 km (202 miles)

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