Avignon to Bollène

May 30, 2019

Into the Wind

We woke up to another beautiful blue sky, deliciously warm temperatures and the Mistral. Not as bizarre as yesterday, today was doable, but we knew it was going to be a strong headwind all day. The wind was forecast at 50 kph, with gusts to 70 kph. That at least is rideable, with care. There are few pictures today. The focus was on the riding and keeping the rubber on the road.

We discussed other options, and I think if our room hadn’t doubled in price overnight we might have stayed put. However, the room rate had mysteriously doubled for a second night on all the websites and at the front desk, so off we went. If you have to pack your stuff you might as well move on is my theory.

The Mistral has the effect of making the sky so incredibly blue and the light so amazing.

Inside the ancient walls we were protected somewhat from the wind.

Once outside the walls it was quite the experience. It was the most challenging when gusts hit, particularly if they were crosswinds. Early on a couple of tourers passed us going the other way, they waved and laughed. They were the first of many we would see today. Their experience was very different from ours.

We reached a point where we were to cross the river and the bridge was route barée. We spent some time trying to find a work around, failed at that, and flew the two km back to the previous bridge with the wind behind us. That was pretty much the only tailwind all day.

Who put this impenetrable gate and fence here?

This guy gave us the look on our way back.

What followed was one of the more interesting experiences I have had on (off?) the bike. Going over the bridge we were completely exposed to the wind, and it was a crosswind. We both had to walk the bikes the wind was so strong, but for me, when the gusts hit, I couldn’t keep the bike upright and keep moving. I had to stop, brace myself, face the side of the bike, legs far apart, and my whole body pushing hard to keep the bike from being blown over. I have never experienced anything like it. Once the gust abated I could start pushing again. A tour bus went by as I was in the braced position and I am sure the passengers thought I was nuts. Keith was too busy fighting with his bike to get any pictures when there was a gust. The whole situation just made me laugh. Especially thinking about what the tour bus passengers were thinking!

He did get one of me walking. The bike is leaning because the wind was so strong I couldn’t keep it upright. I am not making that up. I have never experienced anything like it.

Once on the other side we headed back into the teeth of the wind. There were times when we were in a well protected area that we had some relief, but it was short lived. For some reason we didn’t mind. From my perspective it felt quite satisfying to manage the situation, and other than the wind the weather is so amazing. We met many people touring today...probably because we decided to take the Eurovelo 17 route. We felt no need to add hills to the Mistral. It was enough of an effort as it was. Everyone we met on a bike talked about it. Of course everyone we met (but one) was going the other way, but no matter which way you travelled crosswinds were inevitable.

We weren’t sure what these were. From a distance they looked bright orange.

We met a lovely couple Chris and Karin from the Netherlands who had stopped for a break. We commiserated about the situation, with her talking about the challenges of controlling the bike in the crosswinds. We exchanged blog addresses and carried on. It wasn’t easy at lunch to find a place reasonably protected to enjoy our picnic. We headed around a route barée sign towards a stand of trees and found a spot. We met Nils who hails from near Frankfurt there, also headed our way and the three of us had a good chat. He was working hard as he choose the gravel route along the river. When we ran into him the second time he told us he was about done with the wind. He was having a tough day.

There was lots to look at today, and the route is well signed, and at one point a completely separate bike lane. We also saw more bike tourers today than we have our entire trip combined, probably twenty or more. We think the key difference is that the route was flat. We missed the hills, but were able to spin along and make good time, given the conditions, particularly because I spent a lot of time tucked in behind the Chief Windbreak. What a difference drafting makes.

A field of thistles, as well as vineyards, orchards and gardens.

We are pretty sure they are planting solar panels here.

We saw Nils again while we were sitting out of the wind in a bus shelter in a construction zone deciding on where to stay.

We picked Bollène as it was the right distance, and had lots of accommodation choices. It turns out to be the most North American place we have seen this trip. We toured through the old part of town which was fine (I am damning with faint praise here) and are very comfortable in our room, but it feels like a roadside motel on a road trip to somewhere else, rather than a destination. Bollène has two claims to fame. A hydroelectric plant “Aménagement hydroélectrique et Fluvial de Bollène”, which for 10 Euro each we can tour tomorrow. It is actually pretty impressive but we think we will pass. The Barry Troglodyte Village sounds really interesting. It is a series of underground houses that were inhabited continuously from the Neolithic era to the early 20th century. Unfortunately it is 325 m up, and, to quote the website, a narrow zig zagging road. I am pretty sure that means a series of switchbacks!

I have the Chief Navigator working on research for tomorrow. Perhaps making decisions in a bus shelter dodging the wind isn’t the best way to go. We have to laugh at ourselves. And good news...the Mistral isn’t supposed to make an appearance tomorrow. I am really pulling for the meteorologists, although we have to say, these last few days have really been an astonishing experience we wouldn’t want to have missed. It is an incredible phenomenon.

https://www.relive.cc/view/2409306863

Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 1,450 km (900 miles)

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