Tolar - The seventeenth step ... one step beyond! - CycleBlaze

May 28, 2025

Tolar

Another sub-zero temperature when we awoke this morning. It seems like something that will feature heavily in our near futures.  By the time we got cycling at nine o'clock it had warmed up to a toasty five degrees.

Getting out of El Alto was pretty hectic but we negotiated the almost twenty kilometers of collectivos and trucks that choke the city all the way to its margins without any problems. 

Once out of the city we were on a four lane highway with a wonderful shoulder - a great surface and between two and three meters wide. Just as well because the ongoing fuel shortage in Bolivia means that queues of trucks and other vehicles hog a great deal of the road parked outside fuel stations waiting for fuel to be delivered. 

Looking back to El Alto gave us lovely views of the Cordillera Real.
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Illimani gave us great views for much of the ride.
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Dry gently rolling hills cover much of this section of the Altiplano.
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A common site here at the moment.
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Despite taking a lot of breaks, we arrived in Tolar just after two o'clock.   The town has two well regarded restaurants both with accomodation attached.   We pulled into the slightly cheaper one, the Restaurant Hotel El Porvenir, and had a great lunch of soup, salad, steak and an apple based desert.  However the room they showed me looked as if it hadn't been cleaned in a while so we crossed the road to their competition, the Hotel Gran Poder.  It had many more rooms so I went through various before we settled on something suitable.   Much cleaner and a great hot shower.

A short day tomorrow,  barely thirty kilometers to Patacamaya.  

Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 777 km (483 miles)

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