Ayaviri

May 8, 2025 to May 9, 2025

Thursday the 8th of May

It was a cold start to the morning, much colder than we were anticipating. The minimum temperature was pretty much the same as yesterday, about 3 degrees, but this morning had a damp and cold wind and it was obvious that snow was falling on the hillside above the town. I suggested to Leigh that it was a three layer day but it wasn't long and she had stop to add her down jacket to the mix of technical shirt, Merino wool jersey and rain jacket. She even put thick woolen socks over her hands instead of gloves.

Ten kays after leaving Santa Rosa, looking back at the town, it seemed to us that the snow was still falling.

It never really warmed up at all through the ride but after an hour or so we started feeling human again. The ride was pretty flat and despite the altitude we found ourselves cycling at a pace that we would have expected at sea level.

The terrain is very different here compared to the Cusco side of La Raya. Instead of a narrow valley squeezed between the mountains we are on a broad plain with mountains on all sides. It is quite damp and even marshy in places.

We have followed the ferro carril, the railway line, all the way from Cusco but today was the first time we saw a train. Given that there is a viewing platform at the back we suspect it is a tourist train. To support that view, it was preceded by a service vehicle of the type used to check the railway line condition.

We had some nice birding along the way as well. Nothing new but this American Kestrel with a mouse for a mid morning snack was a nice sighting.

Our target for today was a hostal I had read about called La Capilla. Tomas, the young French guy we met outside of Sicuani had also sung its praises so we headed straight there on our arrival in Ayaviri. We'll spend two nights here - there is a washing so we can launder our clothes properly - and it is the best quality accommodation we have had since arriving in Peru.

Friday the 9th of May 2025

The hostal is a veritable menagerie. Apart from the alpaca and the hairless dogs, there are a few more mongrels, about five cats and various ducks and chickens. The owners are Jaime (Peruvian) and Makayla (born in the Czech Republic and raised in Canada).

A very good breakfast prepared by Jaime was followed by the laundry chore.

About eleven o'clock we wandered into town. First task was to recharge our Peruvian data sim card. Then another good lunch at the same restaurant as yesterday. Finally we picked up some grub for supper at the market and headed back to La Capilla for a lazy afternoon.

A pedestrian street leads from La Capilla to the town plaza.

The center of town is dominated by the Catedral de San Francisco de Asís.

Lots of statues dotted around the cathedral.

A menu del dia like this typically cost between 6 and 8 soles, about $2 US. It will include a rich soup, a choice of mains and a simple warm drink. Some restaurants toss in a dessert, usually a simple jelly.

We had the last of the pure de papa con asado de carne.

Today's ride: 44 km (27 miles)
Total: 276 km (171 miles)

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