Day 2: Kingman to Peach Springs

May 10, 2018

Today is forecast to be a bit cooler than yesterday and I climb to 4780 feet elevation in Peach Springs. I'm looking forward to cooler temperatures.

Today's route is mostly uphill but it started with 5 downhill miles through the suburban sprawl of north Kingman. Population 29,000 makes it by far the largest town I will see during this tour.

A few miles north of Kingman Route 66 begins to climb toward distant small mountains. The climbing was fast and easy thanks to a brisk southwest tailwind. The wind was so strong that I could feel a cooling wind on my back when going 12 mph.

There are 3 stores along today's route. The first store is at about 13 miles, at the entrance to a golf course subdivision.

Hackberry General Store is a popular Route 66 tourist attraction.

Hackberry General Store is at about the halfway point of today's ride. I was hoping they had sandwiches or something like that. The only food they sold was beverages, candy, and ice cream. Lunch was ice cream and V-8. It was an interesting place to look around. It was also interesting to see the diversity of tourists stopping to visit. Americans, Europeans, and Asians. Arriving by car, bus, and motorcycle. I was the only bicyclist.

Hackberry General Store is in the middle of nowhere.

Route 66 passes several tiny towns as it threads through the mountains. Hackberry, Valentine, Crozier, Truxton. A few people still live there but most of the businesses closed a long time ago.

Former gas station in Valentine. Now a residence.

When entering the canyon Route 66 once again gets close to the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe railroad.

Route 66 entering a canyon. Steadily gaining elevation.

Looking back from Crozier towards Kingman. Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe railroad on the left.

I started to see junipers above 4200 feet elevation. That was a nice change. The high desert is noticeably more green than the low desert.

I saw many fences and cattle guards but surprisingly little livestock.

Today more than any other day I saw the ruins of what existed when Route 66 was a busy main highway. Before it was bypassed by I-40. I enjoy seeing the ruins of collapsed civilizations.

The third store today was at Truxton. I didn't stop because it's not far to Peach Springs.

Late in the day Route 66 entered the Hualapai reservation. The name means "people of the tall pines". This is the southeast corner of their large reservation. The tribe has become relatively prosperous thanks to tourism. They own 108 miles of the Grand Canyon downstream from the national park, including the famous Grand Canyon Skywalk.

Grand Canyon Skywalk in the Hualapai nation. I have never been there.

The Hualapai tribe has 2300+ members but only about 1350 live on the reservation. Their native language is a Pai branch of the Yuman–Cochimí languages.

Nice looking houses in the Hualapai reservation.

Late in the day Route 66 is close to the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe railroad once again. Trains are a regular sight. It's a very busy double track.

Now Route 66 is close to the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe railroad.

I arrived at the Hualapai Lodge at 2:55 PM and had to wait 30 minutes for my room to be ready. They gave me a room facing the highway which they promised is much quieter than a room facing the railroad tracks. They supply earplugs just in case.

Hualapai Lodge in Peach Springs. In the Hualapai nation.

Coming from Oregon I'm conditioned to expect all Indian lodging to have a casino and a bar. Not here. There is no casino and possession of alcoholic beverages is a crime. Welcome to the real Indian Country.

Here in Peach Springs the main tourist activity is raft trips in the Grand Canyon. The Hualapai nation has the only practical access points for short raft trips in the Grand Canyon.

Lodging is scarce in Indian reservations. A standard room at Hualapai Lodge cost $149. My experience is that lodging in Indian reservations is nearly double the price compared to surrounding towns such as Kingman, Williams, Page, and Flagstaff.

I took a nap from 3:45 to 5:30, then had dinner in the restaurant. Dinner was the first of several Indian Tacos during the tour. Pretty good. It seems like every tourist loves Indian fry bread.

In the evening it was very windy, almost chilly.

Very nice park across the highway from the motel.

Today was mostly uphill but it was an easy day thanks to the southwest tailwind. High of about 95F. I feel strong and it cheers me up to know that the heat wave has ended.

Distance: 51.3 mi. (82 km)
Ascent/Descent: +1878/-625 ft. (+569/-190 meters)
Average Speed: 9.5 mph (15.2 km/h)

Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 88 miles (142 km)

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