It's grey at 6am when I poke my head out of the tent. When I get up at 9 it's still the same and I don't relish riding up into the clouds, so decide to stay another night. The owner now has a spare room, so I take it. 

The Harley guys are moving on. I chat with some. They think I'm nuts.

The cabin is 250 krone, which is about as cheap as they come. Like most robuer, it sleeps two or three, but this one doesn't have a stove for cooking, like some do. There is an obligitory elec' wall-mounted heater to keep it snug during the night, but the only bedding provided is one or two wooly blankets, so guests really need their own sleeping bag. 

The shower (outside) is a coin opertated affair, as they all are. Some accept a krone and others require a token, which costs a krone. What's that all about? Once inserted, a solenoid valve opens for three or four minutes, just long enough to have a shampoo, shave and washdown. Just.

I have a lazy day, popping to buy some food for tomorrow's ride from the small supermarket at Geiranger's quayside and later relaxing on the restaurant's terrace in the balmy sunshine that appears after a nice fish lunch cooked by the owner.

The high snow in the distance is where I'm going in the morning. I have an early night.