June 29, 2023
To Umatilla OR and the Columbia River
We're so happy to have met Brad and spent a couple nights at his comfortable condo. An easy day and two good sleeps were just what we needed for today's agenda - a 68 mile ride to Umatilla with 3200 feet of climbing.
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This morning is an early start for us - before 8:30! - on what will be the longest ride of the trip. There's a shorter, flatter way to Umatilla via U.S. 12 and U.S. 730 - the Columbia River Highway. Scott Anderson offered up an alternative route going south through Weston Oregon, based on his and Rachel's uncomfortable past experience on 730. We're all for the quieter path.
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On Stateline Road Barry has a flat in front and stops to patch it. Since he is forever waiting for me, I keep pedaling. He'll catch up soon but in the meantime I beat him to the fourth state on our tour.
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The biggest climbs on the ride - more than half of the ascent - are in the first 20 miles to Weston on quiet, and paved, county roads. There's one short stretch on Oregon 11, the Oregon-Washington Highway. It's been resurfaced with fresh chipseal and no lane lines yet, and is full of fast, noisy, car and truck traffic. That brief encounter confirms it, the county roads are the place to be.
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What with all the hills, photos and other dawdling, it's noon when we pull into Weston. We're happy to find the Central Station Cafe open for lunch, even though we're the only customers at the moment. Another Cliff bar-free day.
Weston is a nice looking town but very quiet. I don't see a soul on the streets here.
Back on the road, there are yet more hills to climb. Still, we are all alone out here. We reach the highest point at just over 2,000 feet, then start a gradual descent to the Columbia River. It's into the 90s by now and my water is warming up. At least there's a cool breeze.
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As I chug along I see Barry coasting again in my rear view mirror. He has skinnier tires and stronger legs. There might be other reasons. I'm amazed at how much further he gets on less effort, apparently.
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At mile 38 north of Pendleton we finally come to the long gradual descent to the river. The wind is pushing back at us so I can't coast much. At least the view is different.
At mle 58 the blue waters of the Columbia appear and we drop to the hell that is the Columbia River Highway - more fresh chipseal, no lane lines and loud fast trucks. We're on a long low grade hill battling a hot headwind. I'm out of water and out of humor. Fortunately Barry still has enough to share. It's also hot, but wet.
We're so glad that we did not have to deal with this highway until the last 8 miles. The high road was long and hilly but it was stress-free.
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10 months ago
When we finally pull off the highway there are lovely shade trees on the way to the Quality Inn. The original plan was to camp at Crow Butte Park but we decided to ride a little further today to make some hard rides down the road shorter and easier.
Here there is cold water, a lay down, a long bath, food, and adult beverages. The restaurant has a short menu and Leeann who does everything - cook, tend bar, and serve us with a smile. It's the only place on this side of town and such a relief not to have to go out again. Feeling much better now.
Today's ride: 68 miles (109 km)
Total: 1,081 miles (1,740 km)
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10 months ago
I remember that area well. You are very smart to not subject yourself to camping in the heat. The next riding day was the day we suffered. Count yourself lucky if you don't hit the wind through there.
10 months ago