September 15, 2023
A fine autumn day
Day 09: Bemidji to Walker
IT'S A BEAUTIFUL autumn day in northern Minnesota. Sure, the temperature's only around 50 degrees when we leave our hotel, and okay there's a northwest wind blowing as we start off to the northwest. But the sky's clear and we're only going northwest for a couple miles before we reverse course and turn the headwind into a tailwind.
Before we get to the riding, though, a word in praise of our hotel. It was well-appointed, clean, bright, and very accommodating. Not only did they provide the best breakfast spread to date, but the lady attending the area was constantly in motion, chipper, and solicitous of how we were getting on. It's truly a pleasure to be around someone who so obviously enjoys what they do. It sets a nice tone for the day, and we appreciate it.
Our ride for the day is only suposed to be 43 miles, but we elect to add a couple miles each way for a side trip into "downtown" Bemidji at the start, to see the very large statues of Paul Bunyan and Babe. They're local landmarks and really ought not to be passed up.
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8 months ago
8 months ago
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Having paid our respects to the statuary, we turn to the day's route. We're bound for Walker, and will backtrack some of the Paul Bunyan Trail we rode yesterday but will cover more new roads and paths than what we're backtracking.
With the wind now more-or-less at our backs we return to the Paul Bunyan and Heartland trails, after riding several miles on county roads. They're quiet, well-surfaced, and with the wide shoulders I've come to expect here in snow country.
As usual the group spreads out over a half mile or mile of road. I'm somewhere in the middle, neither leading nor bringing up the rear. The scenery's muted: as yesterday on the trail it's pleasant but not notably photogenic so I break my pattern and don't take many pictures, meaning that I make better time than usual.
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We enter the Leech Lake area, home to a band of Ojibwa natives. It's not remarkably different from what we've been passing through, yet I somehow feel like an intruder. I spend a few minutes reflecting on how drastically life changed for all the native peoples as they were repeatedly, relentlessly, ruthlessly pushed off their ancestral lands and forced onto reservations. On top of that, their way of life was utterly destroyed, never to return.
It's unreasonable, it seems to me, to expect them to abandon their culture and conform to norms imposed on them by an alien culture. By the same token, however, it's equally unrealistic to suppose that they'll ever be able to return to their traditional ways of life. I have no answers, only sorrows.
We arrive in Cass City, and I'm heartened to see that the Indian Health Service facility is having a new wing added, nearly doubling its size. It's nice to see the public money used for such purposes, and in circumstances where I presume it's definitely needed.
After ruminating for a while on cultural issues I arrive at the designated pausing point, just about at the halfway mark for the day. Today's also the halfway point in terms of the number of days the trip will last, so presumably we're close to half distance for the tour as well although none of us has done the calculation as far as I know.
After the break, I never seem to find my legs and rhythm again. The terrain's no different from the near-flat miles we've already covered, the wind's not a factor, it's continuing to warm nicely... no external factors I can point to and blame.
Signs of fall continue: fallen leaves begin to carpet sections of the trail, and a few more splashes of color are emerging. Looking for those helps occupy me, and soon enough I find myself in Walker. End of the riding day is near, and not unwelcome.
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8 months ago
Even so, thanks to the short route, it's only about 1:30 when I arrive at the hotel. After a relaxing shower and some time on the porch, it's time to hit the spa.
The water's comfortaby warm and relaxing, and the jets help massage my tired legs. After a nice soak, it's meeting time followed by dinner and some time writing.
I've got a different roommate this evening than I've had so far, so we spend some time getting to know one another and then it's lights out for the day.
Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 399 miles (642 km)
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