July 9, 2023
Voss to Kinsarvik
The first change of plan for the day was to have a much appreciated, quiet, slow start to this sunny, Sunday morning. Yesterday we thought we would have to start early to get ahead of the Sunday afternoon traffic but our convivial Australian camp host assured us that there is a separate bike path along the E13 for the 35km to Granvin. So we took advantage of the kitchen to make breakfast, the wifi to post a blog update, and the beach for some tanning in the 27C heat and a very refreshing swim. Having dawdled away the morning, we made sandwiches for lunch and rode away at 1pm.
Over lunch we made a second change of plan, deciding to push on all the way across the Hardanger Fjord to Kinsarvik, assuming we could catch the ferries. We determined we could get some groceries on a Sunday en route in Granvin.
Apart from the lead navigator mis-reading the angle of a sign that sent us in the wrong direction, we made good time on the wide, smooth cycle path, uphill for 10km out of Voss.
To avoid the tunnel bicycles have to take the old road which is a National Tourist Route winding around and beside the Skjervsfossen waterfall which, apart from being a stunning natural sight, was home to one of the best public bathrooms in Norway. Last winter we had read how Norway was striving to put bold, innovative architecture in public spaces, including bathrooms on tourist routes… and suddenly there we were. We joined the line, did our business and took photos (see below). Kudos to the Norwegian government to put any bathrooms in public spaces but more so to make them memorable. Beauty can be made in many places.
Then we visited the waterfall.
Thankfully we were not in a car because bicycles had to avoid the next tunnel by taking a peaceful, paved rail trail for 6km along the lake. We were tempted to jump in for a swim but the trail was always up an embankment making access difficult.
At Granvin the valley emptied into the sea and we got our first views of the Hardinger Fjord where we will be touring for the next week. By now we were off the Bergen-Oslo highway and riding a winding, narrow and hilly road beside the sea with not much traffic.
Having just missed the 5pm ferry from Kvanndal, which meant we would arrive in Kinsarvik after 8pm with a change in Utne, we made our third change for the day and opted for the commercial campground instead of finding a spot to wild camp.
The Nordic sun was still high in the sky as we ferried across the fjord, soaking in the scenery. Local ferries are free for foot and bicycle passengers.
We arrived to a campground packed with a surprising number of families for a Sunday night but they managed to find us a square of grass in the parking lot and still charged an exorbitant $60 CAD. Still, we were glad for the hot showers and kitchen with a fridge, so slept well dreaming of adventures for the following day.
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9 months ago
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 3,257 km (2,023 miles)
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