Pernes to Apt - Midtsommer - Mediterranean to the Fjords - CycleBlaze

May 16, 2023

Pernes to Apt

The wind was our friend today!  And what a difference that makes.  We retraced the brutal ride of two days ago to L'Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue but this time we found the bike trail and we had the wind in our backs.  It was glorious.  (Why didn't Goggle maps route us to this trail two days ago?) We stopped in at the same bakery for more of their delicious bread for our lunch and continued. Ten km later we joined the official Eurovelo route 8 which, in this section is called the Calavon cycle route, and follows the river of that same name through the Luberon plain.  Some rail trails go through the woods and back fields with few good views, this one, however, is an outstanding ride looking onto vineyards, lavender fields and hills (mountains) on both sides.

One of our stops for the day was planned at Goult, another charming village.  It was a bit off the trail and a steep climb, but worth it.  This stop was suggested by a couple who have a summer home in the area, via their parents who are friends of ours in Canada.  They recommended Le Goultois, a bistrot in the village square.  The patio was bustling with locals, tourists and quite a few cyclists.  Most were drinking wine and grazing on charcuterie boards, but we opted for coffees and a lemon tart.  It was a warm, sunny spot, AND out of the wind; a rarity in the last few days!  With renewed energy we continued climbing to the top of the village for panoramic views across the valley to the high  hills  of  the Parc Naturel du Luberon.  We could see tomorrow's destination villages, Bonnieux and Lacoste to the east, but that elusive Mt Venoux was hidden by clouds.  We sailed along to our next stop, the Pont Julian, a Roman stone arch bridge dating from 3 BC.  It only stopped being used as a car traffic bridge in 2005.  Imagine in use for almost 2000 years!

The last 12km continued to be terrific all the way to our campsite close to the  historic heart of Apt.  Exceptional trail, exceptional ride.  Feeling pretty good and with some energy left after an easy day of riding, we decided to prepare a more elaborate than usual camp dinner of tuna steaks with new potatoes and peas accompanied by a Cote du Rhone Sablet, from a winery we had cycled by on the way to Gordes. Sante!

Perfect riding today, paved rail trails and a terrific tail wind.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Beautiful
Heart 2 Comment 0
Another windy day! Have we planned a southbound route?
Heart 1 Comment 1
Rachael AndersonThat’s a lot of wind but it’s good to not see rain in the forecast!
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10 months ago
For a moment we thought this was lavender but no, it is too early. Most likely chives.
Heart 2 Comment 2
Kirsten KaarsooSuzanne suggested thyme?
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10 months ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Kirsten KaarsooYou’re right. Thyme it is. After the recent rains the fields of herbs are fragrant.
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10 months ago
This is lavender. Still green in most places.
Heart 2 Comment 0
Great bike paths today.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Some long straightaways on the rail trail sections.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Lovely cafe in Goult.
Heart 2 Comment 0
Coffee and a gâteau citron to energize us for the next section
Heart 2 Comment 0
Windmill at look out in Goult. We could see towards Apt, Bonnieux and Lacoste.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Well kept houses and lanes of Goult.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Pont St julien. This has one of the largest spans of any existing Roman bridge.
Heart 5 Comment 1
Scott AndersonFantastic. We’ve biked through the Luberons three times but have never seen this. We’ve obviously got to return.
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10 months ago
Heart 1 Comment 0
Campground supper. Tuna steaks with small potatoes and peas.
Heart 3 Comment 4
Rachael AndersonI’m impressed with the meals you make while camping!
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10 months ago
Lyle McLeodLike Rachael, I’m impressed with your camp culinary skills as well! We can only manage ‘one pot wonders’ that don’t rate photos! Kudo’s for all the camping too.
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10 months ago
Jacquie GaudetJust catching up and I too am impressed! I'm also impressed with how much Steve carries--sometimes I suspect Al got his new bike as an excuse to not carry too much.
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8 months ago
ann and steve maher-wearyThanks Jacquie but I seem to remember we followed your route in the Pyrenees when you did a solo trip and carried a tent! No issues for you!! You had quite a trip in Sicily! Hope to make it there too one year, hopefully soon!
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8 months ago

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 941 km (584 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 7
Comment on this entry Comment 1
Rachael AndersonI’m so happy for you that you got such a nice day to cycle!
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10 months ago