Auf Weidersshen: Day 35 - Passau to Linz - Get It While It Lasts... A Big Loop Through Europe 2017

September 11, 2017

Auf Weidersshen: Day 35 - Passau to Linz

We bid Germany a fond goodbye early this morning. We have really enjoyed this portion of our trip. The cycling has been great (bike infrastructure is fantastic), the food has been great (Germany does breakfast! ... and cakes!), the campgrounds have been plentiful and excellent, and the people have been very friendly and helpful. And there's one other thing that probably won't make it into any tourist brochures, but is actually quite important to travellers... you can 'crap with confidence'

Many years ago when I was doing a lot of work in 'developing' countries, one of my more experienced colleagues taught me a very important lesson. One of the first things you pack, and carry with you always, is a small pack of tissue aka Kleenex. You'll only forget this once, and you will regret that you did.

I would say that should be part of the cycle touring mantra as well, but after touring mostly in North America the last few years I got a little lazy. Since we were starting our trip in France, one of the most highly developed countries in the world (remember my experience with the French medical system back in Ambois - excellent!), this old axiom just didn't seem to apply. However after our first encounter with French public toilets it was back front and centre. From then on, regardless of whether you were using a public facility or one in even a fancy restaurant (or 5 star campground), you were a good Boy Scout and went in prepared. If there was a toilet seat it was a good day. If there was paper too ... well you just won the lottery.

From this aspect of travelling, what a delight to get to Germany. Toilet facilities everywhere were nearly always very clean and fully provisioned! Now that we're leaving, we have to be Boy Scouts again!

Well, enough on that subject. Today we hit country number 4, Austria. However, within the Schengen zone you have to look for subtle clues that you are actually in another country ... mobile phone carrier changes ... the bike path signs look different ... that's about it!

The route between Passau and Vienna is supposedly the most popular bike route in Europe, and after today we'd agree completely. There were literally hundreds of people cycling on excellent paved bike paths that line both sides of the river. The vast majority of them were day trippers from the cruise boats that dock at one small village, disgorge a couple of hundred passengers and bikes, and then pick them up again 20 - 30 km further along the river.

It sounds like it's crowded, but there is lots of room for everybody and the scenery is very beautiful. The river winds through steeply banked and heavily forested terrain, there are a few small villages and many hotels / resorts dotting the banks ... what's not to like!

We made good time into Linz (probably our fastest average daily speed - very easy cycling) and met up with Lili and Dusan. They are good friends of K's sister and we've met them a few times over the years at various spots in the world. They've been living in Linz for the last few yeas and it was great to get together again with them and enjoy their hospitality. Thanks!

Tomorrow is Melk, a medieval town about half way to Vienna and then we will push on to Vienna for Wednesday where we'll then take a couple of days off to explore.

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Song of the day:

Let the River In by Dotan ...Nice song with a river theme ... video is a bit odd (not sure what he's driving at?) but the song's good! ed. 09/18 replaced the vid with a live version that youtube will let me play in Canada

A foggy morning as we left Passau. The Danube winds through steep banked forested terrain as it enters Austria.

One of several river crossings by Ferry, for bikes and walkers only! Both sides of the river have paved bike routes (at least 80% of the way to Linz) so you can cross over and ride either side as the mood strikes you!

This was the scenery for most of the way to Linz. Very beautiful, and just a few small villages. It would have made for better pictures if it was sunny, but the cool overcast conditions made for excellent cycling

This is the type of cycling we had today. Take your pick on either side of the river

One of the few villages we came to between Passau and Linz

You can spot a few farms and pastures at the top of the banks. Very pretty and it really doesn't show as well in pictures when its overcast

The bikes getting the Royal treatment - overnighting in Lili and Dusan's apartment in Linz

K with Lili and Dusan. Thanks for the great evening ... hope to see you in Canmore so we can reciprocate

Today's ride: 95 km (59 miles)
Total: 2,441 km (1,516 miles)

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