August 29, 2023
Holland SP, MI to Van Buran SP, MI
Day 4
I woke up just after 6 am as a noisy motorcycle left the camp, followed shortly after by a V8 truck. Defeated I got up at 6:30 am. It was a lot warmer this morning with some slight rain drops but nothing to speak of.
With Cameron's hand still out of commission I helped him pack up and we left at 8:20 am. Once over the bridge over the Macatawa River into Holland we rode around the Window on the Water trial. As we left the trail we encountered a closed road, asking the construction workers where to go they vaguely threw out some street names as a detour. I then asked them where the detour signs were and they sheepishly looked at each other and I guess determined there weren't any. At that point I just stated we were going to walk our bikes through the construction zone as they gave us no alternative. The last remark I heard was "at your own risk" as we walked on through.
We arrived downtown Holland 9:15 am and found coffee and internet at Ferris Coffee.
We waited until 10 am for the Museum to open, then went around and found that it was closed. I remembered seeing the hours yesterday and thinking I should check but forgot. Bit of a waste of time but Cameron did get some school work completed so we won't need to for longer later today.
As we had to get to South Haven by 3 pm to get a stamp at the Hartman School for the South Haven Lighthouse, we quickly left town zig zagging our way southwest, then picked up 62nd street that has a bike trail but as the street was traffic free we stayed on the street. The weather had turned this morning and rain threatened but never eventuated however the wind was now from the south so we had a slight headwind but not to concerning.
We reached Saugatuck around 11:30 am and rode up to the end of Griffin Street then back down the main Butler Street to see the sights. When reached the chain ferry that takes you across the Kalamazoo River we found that it was closed. Disappointed we realized we would need to reroute over a bridge around the Kalamazoo Lake. However before we left, we had a quick snack to fuel the engines and filled our water bottles.
It was only a slight detour to ride out on the Blue Star Highway and over the Kalamazoo Lake and rendezvous with our original route.
Just off the highway is the replica Kalamazoo Lighthouse. The plan had been to ride out to the lake to the site of the original lighthouse however with the ferry not running it was too far to backtrack and I was also conscious of the time.
Kalamazoo (Replica) Lighthouse
Built in 1839, the original Kalamazoo lighthouse was at the mouth of the Kalamazoo River near Saugatuck. With the threat of erosion, a new light was built in 1859 further away from the river mouth.
In 1876, the light from Kalamazoo Lighthouse was transferred to a new tower erected at the end of the south pier at the entrance to the river.
After a steamer collided with the south pier in 1892, the light was transferred back to the 1859 lighthouse.
In 1906, a new entrance to the river harbor was opened and a new light, the Saugatuck Harbor North Entrance Light was established. Later in 1914, the Saugatuck North Pierhead Light was established at the end of the north pier, and he Kalamazoo Lighthouse was decommissioned.
The lighthouse was sold and used as a beach house from 1937 onwards. Unfortunately, a tornado in April of 1956 demolished the old lighthouse.
A replica of the 1859 Kalamazoo Lighthouse was built on the south shore of Kalamazoo Lake in 2002.
The Blue Star Highway out of Saugatuck was rough going, especially as we crossed over the freeway I196 with a very rough shoulder. We were surprised this is the official bike route 35. Unfortunately, Lake Shore drive along the lake has a small gap in this area which would have given us a nice ride along the lake with views. It would be nice if the state could work with the landowners in this area to provide a safe passage for pedestrians and cyclists to bridge this incredibly small gap.
By 1 pm we had reached Pier Cove Beach on Lakeshore Drive, so we climbed down the steps and enjoyed our lunch and had a quick look for lightening rocks. Not wanting to weigh us down, we only picked up one.
This was another area along the lake where there were signs up to discourage people from using the beach. They were also protesting a proposed sidewalk to be built in the area.
Lakeshore Drive merged with the Blue Star Highway at Glenn and we were lucky as the road was wet but we had missed the rain. After a few rolling ups and downs we arrived in South Haven at 2:15 pm stopping at the Maritime Museum to pick up the stamp for the Life Saving station, then we rode across town to the Historical Association of South Haven, located in the Hartman School to get the last of three stamps needed for the South Haven Lighthouse. The other two I had already obtained in 2021 on my short tour in this area.
Lake Michigan - East - Short Lighthouse Tour
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Heading down to the lighthouse for a quick photo opportunity we found the pier was closed but I had ridden out to the lighthouse before on my 2021 trip.
South Haven South Pier Lighthouse
The first lighthouse at South Haven was a wooden tower on the pierhead and was lit on May 10, 1872.
In 1888, the pier was extended and the beacon was moved and in 1901 when the pier was extended again, moving further out into the lake.
In 1902, the old wooden tower was replaced with a circular metal tower. This light was first exhibited on November 13, 1903.
The elevated metal walkway that leads to the tower was relocated from Calumet Lighthouse in Illinois and installed on the pier in 1925.
The historic keeper’s dwelling in South Haven now serves as the Marialyce Canonie Great Lakes Research Library of the Michigan Maritime Museum.
We tried unsuccessfully to find an open coffee shop for more internet, ending up out by the Meijer at Biggby's on the main highway. Finding this was a drive thru and with no place to sit inside we commandeered an outside electrical plug and set up for a few hours.
With only a few miles to our campsite at Van Buren State Park, we rode the short distance to Meijer for our dinner supplies. Tonight it is pork sausages, potatoes and carrots.
After arriving at camp, setting up on site 60 and having dinner, we walked down to the beach just on sunset.
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Today's ride: 52 miles (84 km)
Total: 197 miles (317 km)
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