To Lodève, France

June 13, 2025

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Today was a full day. Jacinto had requested a 7 AM breakfast, and in no time regretted the hour. We never saw the hostess again that evening, so there wasn't a chance to change the time. Probably it was good that we got going, today had plenty of climbing for the miles.

We were downstairs at the appointed hour. Only one table was set, for us. You can't believe the food that was set out. Plus, she made an excellent hot egg skillet dish that had a tomato base. There was an entire loaf of sliced bread that we didn't touch, and also croissants, and sweet breads. I didn't eat wheat for ten years, and pretty much lost my taste for it. I have had a couple of croissants. They are worth the splurge, but I don't have a craving. Probably that's better for the waistline.

The hostess spoke excellent English. Mutual thanks were exchanged several times. We went upstairs and finished packing. We had leftover calzones from last night. Jacinto abandoned my doggie bag leftovers from Carcassonne. I've never known him to leave behind leftovers before. We've had good luck with getting refrigerators each night. We haven't asked for ice or purchased ice even once this trip. With the notable exception of our two, 100 E ice cubes! There's been a couple of days that were too warm for me, but Jacinto soaks it up.

I must have angered the col gods by laughing at how many col signs we've been seeing. Today had over 3,000 feet of climbing, and a number of distinct peaks. We didn't have a single col sign!

Jacinto was very patient to wait for me at all of the key spots. I can climb - slowly, so slowly. My breathing is good, and my legs were in the game. At the beginning of the day, there were a few spots of 10-12% grade, but then it evened out. I did see one 17% spot briefly, climbing up from a creek. I'm doubting the accuracy of that reading, it was down in a really low spot with lots of tree cover. Suffice it to say that most of the climbing had reasonable grades and I did well. That's a relief. You will be surprised to hear I even chose the route with more climbing - the better to prepare me for the Dolomites and the Alps. Jacinto, we know is ready.

Our surprise for the day was another hike a bike, from mile 16.4-17.8. A man in a car stopped and warned us he didn't think a bicycle could go that way. Of course, at the moment it appeared we could ride it. That idea was quickly dispelled. I was for going back and riding the pavement. But, we didn't have service to see how far the work around would be. Jacinto voted we continue on. The good part was that the road was fairly level. I was never panting like a steam engine, and Jacinto didn't have to come back and push my bike.

We agreed that we like D roads just fine! Later in the day we turned off onto some no center lane roads, and we were both apprehensive about what might follow. Happily that was our only hike a bike section. We were on one of the no center lane pieces, and hadn't seen anyone in forever. Of course, the moment I drop my shorts, here comes three bicycle riders! The only good thing is that I was on the far side of my bicycle (although still next to the roadway). Perhaps they didn't get the full view. One man did laugh after they passed. I had to laugh also.

Today was my turn for the car encounters on the no center line road. It was the same situation as Jacinto had - a blind corner. A little blue car came around the corner quickly, and I was going downhill quickly. We both quickly (notice how fast this all moved?) pulled to the outside, and all was well. Later in the day I had a yellow delivery van on my side of the road, he didn't seem to care I was there, and pulled back over at the last second. Yep, the D roads are looking good.

Today wasn't as hot as we expected. I appreciated shade when we had it. I was climbing well, but that doesn't mean I wasn't happy to get to the top of the last climb. We had a twisty turn downhill, dropping more than 1,000 feet to town. Our Logis Hotel is right on the edge of town and was easy to find.

The woman here also speaks English. She gave me a hand towel to wipe all of the dust off of my bike. Poor bike. In Ovando, MT last year, the owner commented that my bicycle looked brand new, yes I could bring it inside. I need several passes with a rag before it gets invited inside now.

We got in the room, and drank the carafe of cold water we were given at check in. After showering, I decided my priority was a nap. See what Jacinto did to me, suggesting a nap the other day?

There's a restaurant here at the hotel. They have a chef, and it looks fancy. Instead we walked to the Vietnamese restaurant around the corner. On my phone I was sure said 6 PM dinner. After we started walking, we looked at Jacinto's phone and it said 6:30. We decided to walk slowly. They had a menu posted outside. We stood there at least five minutes, checking the offerings. Then Jacinto tried the door, and it was open! I felt silly. There we were killing time outside.

The little bit of town we saw between the hotel and the restaurant didn't look prosperous. Buildings were in disrepair, but not in a charming way. We were only on the edge of town. Maybe downtown would be attractive?

We've been seeing plenty of touring cyclists now. Today had fewer road cyclists - I think perhaps just the three that caught me unawares!

Tomorrow is a big climbing day for the number of miles - 3,800 feet and 38 miles. I'm hoping for the same reasonable grades we've been having. We looked over the route in great detail. Komoot showed one 2 mile section of dirt. RWGPS took the same road, but said it was paved. The google guy wouldn't look at it, and satellite didn't show it clearly. We decided to take the D Road around.

More details from our charming chateau stay.

I’m quite sure we were the only people staying here and there was a huge breakfast spread. I hated to think of the waste.

We shut and locked the chateau door behind us. Or is that considered a gate?

We saw a fair number of similar crosses today.

There was a short area of ground covered in snails, both on the road and off. We couldn’t help but run them over.

I have no idea what this is about, out in the middle of nowhere.

Look at the arch of greenery. It’s a perfect photo frame.

Can you believe we had another hike a bike!

The dirt section looks rideable here. Wrong. It’s sand, not packed dirt. We had a man in a car warn us that the paved road finishes in a km, and he didn’t know if bicycles could ride the dirt. It was kind of him to stop.

We bicycled past an adventure camp. Riding this bicycle 20” up in the air is too adventurous for me!

Is this a naturally groomed tree? Way out in the middle of nowhere.

Jacinto gives it his all to get a good photo.

See the broom plants in the background? I was breathing deeply today, with all of the climbing. The broom plants still smell good.

There were two of these trees together. I suspect they are invasive, but the blossoms were eye catchingly delicate.

This road is narrower than a bike path in Tucson, as measured by my bicycle.

Our bicycles are parked next to the Tesla. The Hôtel information says 10 E for parking, but she didn’t say anything about us paying?

The bedroom seems spartan after last night. It is roomy.

Note the towels they left along the shower to try and contain the water. They were minimally successful. A curtain would fix that. But they don’t seem to do shower curtains in France.

Here’s a new toilet paper dispenser. Two squares at a time. Isn’t that all you need?

Dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant was our favorite meal of the trip. Vegetables are tasty.

Jacinto tried Vietnamese beer, and followed it by a Thailand beer. 5 E each.

A mural in Lodève, walking back from dinner.

Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 305 miles (491 km)

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Scott AndersonYou're doing it! And you're right about tomorrow - just stick with the D road the whole way. It will be fine once you get past that first climb. And when you're in Millau don't fail to get a good look at the viaduct - it's pretty are to believe: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/autumn2022/to-limoux/#43496_xthl1oujecr4fr2por057kbnvwr.

And then look forward to the day after, which could end up being your favorite day of the tour. The Tarn gorge is one of the wonders of France. Have your lights handy though - tunnel after tunnel after tunnel.
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