To Espinasses, France

June 25, 2025

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I'm creating bad habits with these short days. We sleep in, eat a hotel breakfast, and depart at a leisurely 9:30-10 AM. That works much better when we are in the mountains - as we are now.

Jacinto walked to the grocery and bought ice for the day. I have upped my ice in the bra game. I now insert the baggie of ice in a sock. I can leave that in my bra until it completely melts. I'm sorry if that's too much information for you. But, I can do one better! Jacinto found a wash cloth today that was sewn on three sides, and had one side open to insert . . . . your hand . . . it's open to insert your hand. That is not where my mind went. He saved it for me to clean my chain. I told him there was no way I was putting my hand in that terry cloth mitt!

Now that I've totally offended your sensibilities - let me go on to say that Jacinto said today was the best day of the trip. We had a long, all day climb. It was never tough, but it sure did last! Jacinto liked today because we are back in the mountains, and it's not as hot. I will add that the lack of traffic is delightful. Yesterday and today were my two favorite days.

Jacinto got ahead of me on the climb, but waited in a breezy patch of shade right after the col at mile 21. We agreed we should camp out there for the afternoon, as we knew our hotel didn't have AC or even a fan. He had been waiting for a half hour, so he was ready to go.

Today we saw a few single male riders, and one couple. All day riders. No tourists now. They certainly should be over here on these roads. This is a wonderful route.

There were just a few tight turns, then it was easy to let the bike run. We had one mile long climb as we approached town. Why is it, no matter or far (or short) of a distance I have to ride, I'm always so happy to be there?

There was a sign on the hotel door saying they spoke English, but that person must not be working right now. We checked in and got cold drinks, but no extra instructions. That's important to the story.

After showering, we walked next door to the bakery. Can you believe we've been in France for three weeks and haven't gone in a bakery yet? They had AC! I told myself to eat slowly, then we could sit longer. When we walked back to the hotel, there wasn't a breath of air, and the sun was hot. Surprise! The garage type doors were pulled down on the front of the hotel/restaurant. Now what? We have a room key, but just the one key. It does have a door code number, but we don't see a Digital Touch pad anywhere. We walked around the building. Nothing. It's getting hotter and hotter. We tried to call the numbers on the front door. We must not be entering the country codes properly. My phone is the one that has the booking.com information - and it's back in the room. What to do? I suggested we go back to the bakery, and maybe the friendly clerk who spoke English could help us. In the meanwhile there were three other people wandering around the front of the hotel. I think they wanted a room. At least they weren't hold a useless key in their hands! The clerk at the bakery did help us. We didn't walk far enough around the building, there was an entrance on the far side, next to the car park. We were in! If we were questioning our ability to stay comfortable in the room, it was gone now.

We are sitting in a living room area that is slightly cooler than our room. We are going at 7 PM for the menu du jour for 17E.

I had a carefully researched route for tomorrow. 25 miles and 2,800 elevation gain. I had cut a big climbing day into two, so I would be more comfortable. Jacinto would have loved the challenge. I told him how carefully I had looked at this day, riding on each side of the lake. Of course, he had to then look at the east side, and found a 33 mile route with an extra 1,000 feet of climbing. Doesn't that sound even better? I do agree that there aren't as many steep pitches, but 1,000 feet extra is a lot. End of story is that I'm going to put on my big girl pants and navigate the short route alone tomorrow. Jacinto is going the long route.

Tomorrow's hotel has AC! I've already written and asked how early we can check in. I hope it's early.

Our bikes were stored in the back of the dungeon/garage at the Hotel Tivoli. In the end, there wasn’t not a charge for bicycles.

This is one of my favorite photos of the trip. Taken exiting Sisteron.

Looking way, way up the hill at the citadel in Sisteron. We did not visit. We saw a Disney type train hauling tourists around.

Jacinto’s photo of the citadel. I now have another research project. What is the difference between a citadel, fort, castle, and chateau!

I think this is Sisteron from another side, as we leave town.

I was cycling slowly enough to see the bees and butterflies on the lavender.

I think we are a tad early on the lavender. It’s still a fine sight.

We’ve seen many roadside picnic areas. This one had water.

Here’s the end of an airport runway. I could see the flag.

Don’t blink or you will miss the airport entrance.

We rode through apple orchards the entire day. Here, they show their apple pride.

I couldn’t read the inscription, but I like how strongly the statue stands.

Is this a distance church steeple? Most have distinct bell towers.

Jacinto found a shady spot to wait for me.

There is a very wide canal right before Espinasses.

65 E no AC or fan either. We are doubtfully optimistic about our chances for a good night’s sleep.

We did not buy a dessert, but they look delicious.

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 693 miles (1,115 km)

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Scott AndersonWonderful that you've had such a fine last two days. And funny that you and Jacinto are biking opposite sides of the reservoir tomorrow, because I almost emailed you last night to point out the choice. We've ridden it ourselves on our Alps tour fifteen years ago: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/geneva2015/to-guillestre-on-the-low-route-dodging-the-rain/.

I would really encourage you to ride with Jacinto. A couple of things. Once you get to the other side of the reservoir it's an awesome, very quiet, reasonably easy ride along the lake. The views across to the busier side are incredible all along the way. RideWithGPS is notoriously bad with its elevation estimates on terrain like this, and I suspect the actual elevation is well less than 4K' - maybe even less than on the side you're planning to ride - note that there's quite a long tunnel on the south side that I doubt RideWithGPS knows about.

And one more thing: nearly all of your work on the other side comes right away - steep, fairly long, fairly straight, and more or less straight up. I imagine you'll ride virtually the whole climb with the sun beating down on your back.

And, of course, there's the risk factor. Jacinto's planning a long stretch on a very lonely road, in a very foreign land and probably out of cellphone range. Better if you stay on the same road in case either of you has a mishap so there's someone to go for help.

Either way though, have an awesome time. You have some spectacular days ahead.
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1 month ago

Jacquie GaudetWhile we’re discussing Guillestre: we had two good dinners at Le Guillestrin. It’s down a very narrow street.
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1 month ago