To Carcassonne, France

June 11, 2025

This is a good, low stress entry into the city. There's little traffic.

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There's something to be said for relaxed, no pressure riding days. Today we had a short day into Carcassonne. The better to have time to walk the ramparts. It's a good thing we didn't want to leave early. 8:30 was the earliest breakfast time offered. The garden setting was a lovely place to eat. I noticed that it was not chilly at all while we ate breakfast. I had written our host in Carcassonne, asking for an early check in, at 2 PM. I noted that the weather was very hot and we were traveling by bicycle. The reply I received suggested 1:30. Deal!

Jacinto had floated the idea of riding longer miles, since I had said we should walk the ramparts in the evening due to the heat. I am feeling slightly guilty about his being my navigator, which means he isn't free to branch out and add miles. I negotiated that if we were going to ride more miles, then I'd want to leave early to beat the heat. However, we had the offer of being in the apartment at 1:30, we should take it. Jacinto consoled himself with the knowledge we would ride 51 miles the next day.

We were out the door by 10 AM. There wasn't much action in town. Just a few men having coffee and croissants. We had a mostly flat ride. There was one short climb, which netted us a col sign. I was dreading the entry into Carcassonne, which has a population of 40,000. We are staying inside of the city walls, which put us on the edge of town. Komoot gave us an easy entry into town. So easy, I think I could have navigated it myself. But how do I know in advance? The only bobble, if you could call it that, was that RWGPS had us approach our apartment from the outside of the walls. Komoot had us approach from the inside. Of course I wanted maximum exposure, plus I am still smarting from my hike a bike experience. We went with Komoot. They sent us through a small side entry, that was take the panniers off and carry the bikes one at a time type of entry. At least we could see the top of the stairs!

We had only a little trouble finding the correct street. The lockbox was right where it should be and we got right into the apartment. Look at us have a little bit of luxury! Best of all was the washer. I had carried detergent from home just for this occasion. We quickly showered and went to eat. Just because the restaurants are open now doesn't mean they will be open later. We went to the closest place. They offered a menu del dia. It was fine. Not great. Jacinto tried gizzard salad. We've been seeing it on the menu and couldn't imagine what it would be. It's a green salad with boiled (?) gizzards on top. Jacinto said it would be much tastier if they were breaded and fried as they are in the USA. For our mains, Jacinto had chicken and I had salmon. Mine was over cooked. His was fine.

We went back to our oh so cool air conditioned apartment. This is the life! Jacinto volunteered to walk to the grocery to buy breakfast fixings for the morning. He suggested I take a nap while he's gone. okay? Sure, now you suggest it, I can do that.

He tried two grocery stores, and had minimal success. No muesli. No peanut M&M's or other candy. He did buy yogurt in cute little glass jars. I would take those home if I didn't have to carry them for another six weeks.

Jacinto said there was now cloud cover and a breeze, it's nice outside to walk the ramparts. I wanted to do that first, and then eat. He preferred to eat, and then walk off our dinner. We did it that way - at least we knew the restaurant was open now. We went to the same place. I didn't think it was that good, but it was open, and they spoke English. English has not been near as common as I expected this trip. Spanish even less so. It has been suggested to me that the French are snobs and don't speak English even if they know how. I feel that the people we've spoken with are being real in their vocabulary. Certainly anything is more than what we speak. Jacquie did give me instructions on how to ask for a bottle of tap water. Her instructions worked!

Walking around the ramparts in the evening was perfect. The weather was excellent, and most of the people were gone. It was everything I wanted the experience to be. A negative is taking a big step down on my bad knee. I think something is still not quite right. It's fine riding, but stairs, and steps are not friendly. I'm still putting Voltaren daily as insurance.

I think Jacinto's best part of the evening was stopping for ice cream. We shared a grandisimo size with five flavors. Now we are back in the apartment, washing clothes. I'm optimistic about them drying by morning. Jacinto is not so sure. I've dried my underwear on the back rack a couple of times already this trip. Those Americans! You can't believe the things they do.

I'm lobbying for an 8 AM depart tomorrow, because of the long ride, and the headwinds. It's a tough sell. If we get there before 3 PM, we can get into our lodging. If not, they are closed until 6. That's incentive to be on time. I told the lady I hoped to be there at 2. One thing is that we want to eat lunch, so we need to be earlier for that.

Hopefully it will be another beautiful ride tomorrow. We weren't on the road long today, but the riding was spectacular. One thing of note is that when the road surface is even a little rough, there's signs all over. In the USA, those would be considered normal road surfaces!

We had a sweet breakfast for 8E. No protein allowed!

There was a slow drip of water into the third container from the left. I wonder if the B and B owner rotated them?

No cleats allowed inside. We had to change shoes outside.

The 12th century bridge leaving Lagrasse.

I appreciated the plane tree shade this morning.

A .4 mile climb was rewarded with our only col sign today.

Note the open air shower next to the bed.

The bikes parked downstairs in the living room.

Jacinto tried to open the washer door, mid cycle. He left his earbuds in his shirt pocket. They went through the two hour wash cycle. I’m afraid they are done for.

We both ordered the cassoulet maison with sausage, pork, and duck legs. I had over half of mine left. I asked for a to go box. A doggie bag? Yes. No - no doggie bag. We were directly next door to our apartment. I went and got a plate! I’m still embarrassed, all busy myself. It was a lot of food to waste. Now Jacinto has breakfast.

You can get cash inside of the medieval city! Anything to get the tourist money. We need cash to pay our lodging tomorrow.

Komoot said we had 340 feet of unrideable terrain. We had to unload the panniers and carry the bikes up.

This was the entrance RWGPS said to use.

Jacinto has been wanting ice cream for days. This was 8.5Euros for five flavors.

Jacinto was pleased that this bird held still while he got his phone out.

Today's ride: 22 miles (35 km)
Total: 219 miles (352 km)

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Scott AndersonIsn't this an amazing place? I don't know which way you plan on leaving town tomorrow you should really try to go over the 14th century Pont-Vieux (the old bridge), one of the most important medieval bridges in France. The bridge itself is fantastic, but it also gives you a wonderful look back at the fortified city. Really, not to be missed.
https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/sete2017/in-carcassonne-canal-du-midi/#4398_3183953_P1110683
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2 weeks ago

Jacquie GaudetWe’ve had luck with the word “takeaway” for leftovers on the rare occasions we’ve had any.

As for menu items, Google translate isn’t always useful. Searching the name of the dish will often get you a photo or a recipe.
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2 weeks ago