Day 9: To Royal Gorge campground

September 5, 2008

Today I biked less than 20 miles but I hiked 9 miles with 3000 feet of climbing. Far from a lazy day. I got up at 7:30, ate breakfast, and walked to the trailhead across the road. I left the campsite behind, but the sage colored tent doesn't attract much attention. I wasn't sure if this is the correct trailhead for access to Goldbug hot spring. It did have this sign, but there were suspiciously few cars parked there (no cars).

So I started up the trail. It has many switchbacks working up a big ridge. And a great view of the huge serpentine bend of the Salmon river below.

I wasn't paying attention to the clock, just hiking uphill. Eventually I checked my altimeter and noticed that I had climbed more than 2500 feet, much higher than the published elevation of Goldbug hot spring. So I turned around, concluding that this is NOT the trail to Goldbug hot spring.

Back at the river I packed up the campsite and rode a mile back to the RV park/store/restaurant. I had an early lunch there and learned that the correct trailhead is on the south edge of town (Goldbug hot spring is the main tourist attraction in the area). I saw the correct side road yesterday and even went down the road a bit, but not all the way to the trailhead.

I got to the Goldbug hot spring trailhead shortly before 1 PM. 2 cars were parked there. It took about an hour to hike 2 miles to the hot spring. Uphill all the way. Gradual at first but very steep near the hot spring. The trail climbs 800 feet, the sun was shining, and there was no shade. I arrived at the hot spring just as a couple was leaving. So I had the place to myself for a few minutes until more people arrived. I soaked there for 3 hours, getting a bit sunburned.

The main pool complex at Goldbug hot spring.

Another great view from Goldbug hot spring.

Goldbug hot spring has a huge flow of 102F water gushing out of the hillside. It forms a 4-foot waterfall that offers an intense shower massage. Then the water courses rapidly through a complex of small 101F pools. All with a great view of the valley below and mountains above. Surely the best hot spring of this tour.

Besides the main 102F waterfall source there are several smaller but hotter seeps in the area. Several other hot pools surround the main pool complex.

Lower hot pool near the trail. In the distance is the runoff from the main hot pools.

At least 5 more people arrived before I left the hot spring at 5 PM. I hiked down the trail and got on the bike at 6 PM. Then I backtracked 17 miles upstream to the commercial Royal Gorge Campground/RV park, arriving at 7:30 PM. They wanted $26 but I paid it because they have showers and they are a 5 minute walk from Cronk Canyon hot spring. At least I get a riverside campsite on irrigated grass, with a table. The woman there complained that tent campers are more work for her than RVers because she has to clean the bathrooms. I should have argued for a discount because she only needs to clean one gender's bathroom.

Today's weather was warmer than yesterday with a high of 75F. The evening was overcast, unusually windy, but not cold at all. 60F at 10 PM, much warmer than usual.

Today was a strenuous day because of the 3-hour hike on the wrong trail. But I also spent 3 hours soaking at Goldbug hot spring.

Distance: 19.9 miles (31.8 km)

Climbing: 552 feet (167 m)

Average speed: 9.9 mph (15.9 km/h)

Maximum speed: 20 mph (32 km/h)

Hiked 9 miles with 3300 feet of climbing!

Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 362 miles (583 km)

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