September 19, 2019: Vranov nad Dyjí to Znojmo

September 19, 2019

Beautiful National Park Trails

Hotel: Hotel Morava, € 35,09

THEY rustled up some grub for us this morning for breakfast at the ol' Saloon. So, we got to gettin' some while the gettin' was good, and before we got back in the saddle.

That almost makes me gag, but seems to suit the spot! Breakfast was not actually that bad - some kind of sweet cake, bread, delicious yogourt, a plate of sliced red peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers, and a plate of scrambled saucy buttery egg goo like back in Sedlčany, but it was tasty and I did not feel woozy afterwards. The server was the same fellow who helped us order lunch yesterday who was really quite pleasant as he struggled with english to help us.

We got the bikes out of the storage room and loaded them up on a pretty chilly though sunny and bright morning. I think it was about 6 C. We were nervous to drink the tap water in such a small village, so we went next door to the corner store market for some bottled water and juice. I made up another batch of Gatorade and then we set off.

As soon as we crossed the bridge over the Dyjí River that we had come over yesterday, the road turned upward and continued that way for about 12 km. We had the choice of the shorter non-Greenway route or the longer Greenway route. We chose the latter - we did come for the PVGW after all. An interesting area we passed was the reservoir for the river with a huge concrete dam holding back the water and with dozens or hundreds of little cottages all around it amongst the trees. Kind of a mini-Muskoka. The route that we followed must have been the access road to these cottages but once we turned away from the reservoir, again up the road went in a murderous ascent that I was able to pedal, but only just. It was beautiful, continuing with a canopy of green towering above us as the sun filtered through the leaves. A lot of today's route was through the Podyjí National Park which is heavily forested.

After the tough and long climb, we emerged onto a highway for about 150 m and then returned to a gravel road where cars were not allowed, then returned to the National Park along a paved path through the treed canopy. The route alternated from this, to gravel roads, to single track dirt trails, and even to gravelly off road trails that descended through the trees to cross a running stream. A few times the grassy path skirted a pond somewhere in the forest. The hairy descent down to the stream had a return that neither of us could pedal so we walked for a km or two uphill until the climb was more rideable.

Overall, today's route meandered and turned all over the place, and though I had checked the terrain and it seemed to climb for 12 km and then slowly descend for 2km, I would have to say that there was a lot more climbing involved than that. It was incredibly beautiful, but I was getting weary with the difficult riding today.

When we were about 10 km from Znojmo, there were plum trees along the road. MA had stopped behind me to pick a lot of them, but I had also stopped and knocked a few down from the tree. I tried a couple, but they are not my favourite fruit, though again, she said they were really good. No plum police came along.

We could see the spires of the city ahead so both of us were relieved to be getting to our destination. Then all of a sudden the route was a screaming descent down to the city sign. Then cruelty. We had a monster of a climb back up to the city which just about did us in. We didn't walk, but we were zonked. A good bit of the way into the centre was along a bicycle path, then toward the centre the traffic was light so we rode along the cobblestones to the city square where our hotel was located.

It was slightly past noon, but the fellow at the counter quickly checked us in. He said he was third generation family to run this hotel in a building that is 400 years old. He allowed us to bring our bikes up to our room which made me lot happier than down in the courtyard, then after cleaning up a bit we headed out to find lunch, and found an amazing place called La Casa Navarra where we both had homemade gnocchi, and mine was in a sauce of chicken, garlic, spinach, cream and parmesan.

We wandered around the centre to the various squares, stopped in one magnificant cathedral, then when it got too cold out, we came back to the hotel. What a beautiful little city this is. One of the problems with a set schedule is that I can't just decide to stay another day, which I would like to do here. You just get a little taste of here and there and move along, in a way kind of like those bus tours that herd people along. Is my way any better?

Beautiful view of the castle from our room. -- Vranov nad Dyjí

The PVGW route took us right along the reservoir of the Dyjí River where we passed dozens of holiday cottages, though most seemed empty on this cold weekday in September. -- Near Vranov nad Dyjí, Czechia.

The route often entered the Podyjí National Park, a beautiful area which is heavily forested, often with a green canopy towering over our heads. -- Podyjí National Park, Czechia.

Picturesque village along the PVGW route today. -- Near Podyjí National Park, Czechia.

I still cannot believe our luck of me having stumbled upon this cycling route. Here we are in the middle of Czechia, cycling along a gravel pathway through a heavy forest. You would almost think that cars don't exist. -- Podyjí National Park, Czechia.

This was the huge climb in the park that I just could not pedal. It was steep, there were loose stones that even made walking tricky, but it was pretty. I just heaved on the bike and kept gawking around at the beauty of the place. -- Podyjí National Park, Czechia.

Believe it or not, but this section is actually on the PVGW route and Eurovelo 13. Some of the descent would have been hairy on an off-road bike, never mind a loaded touring bike. But we managed and forded the stream without getting our shoes wet or sinking our bikes in the process. -- Podyjí National Park, Czechia.

After all of those ups and downs that were 'supposed' to be a nice ride downhill into town, we could see Znojmo in the distance. A quick little ride to the end? Not quite. A light-speed drop and yet another huge climb into the city. -- Znojmo, Czechia

Our Hotel Morava in the main square. -- Znojmo, Czechia.

Restaurant La Casa Navarra. -- Znojmo, Czechia.

Magnificent cathedral. -- Znojmo, Czechia

Jesuit square and church. -- Znojmo, Czechia

Streets of town, beautifully cobblestones with a guard tower from the 1400s. -- Znojmo, Czechia

Streets of town centre. -- Znojmo, Czechia

Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 336 km (209 miles)

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