Day 7: Cataldo, Idaho: The Old Mission and Double Double on the Moose

July 9, 2015

We scheduled an extra day here in Cataldo because of the Old Mission State Park, just 5 km from our lovely spot by the river. We are aware of the mission trail in California, built by the Franciscans, though we have never visited any and don't know what they look like. But out here there is nothing like that, except for this:

The story begins in the 1840's when the local Indians (named the Coeur d'Alenes by French trappers) formed the idea that an alliance with the famed "Blackrobes" could give them access to magic that would help in competition with other tribes. The Blackrobes were the Jesuits, then headquartered in St. Louis.

In 1842 two Jesuits began work among the Coeur d'Alenes. They seem to have been mainly of Belgian origin, but the primary designer of the mission church they built with the assistance of the Indians was Antonio Ravalli, from Ferrara, Italy.(Where willl be in September!). Although they would have preferred to build a cathedral, the realities of the frontier situation produced a hand hewn, hand carved building that while rustic was grand in its own way.

Based on what we have read, the Indians and Jesuits got along well, and shared aspects of each others culture and religious beliefs. Not that the Jesuits were getting converted to Indian beliefs, but at least the Indians saw parts of Christianity that resonated with them.

Below the restored mission building and parish house, at a respectful distance and lower height, an interpretative centre has been built. The main feature of this is a multimedia presentation called Sacred Encounters.This is the permanent version of something that had toured worldwide, we think. The exhibition seems intended to give equal billing to the Indian culture and religion and that of the Jesuits, though in fact it is heavily concerned with the native side. There are many examples of native dress and craft, with a great stress on the approach to the seasons, to song, and to family and tribe.

The final chapter describes the despicable events in the 1870's, when the natives had most of their lands stripped away by the US government, and were deported to a reservation 90 km away near De Smet, Idaho. Ironically, De Smet was one of the chief players among the Jesuits, who seem relatively innocent in this scenario. The Jesuits counselled peace, while the general feeling was for war against the US. The subsequent forced treaty did not include the area of the Mission the Coeur d'Alenes had helped to build, and the mission was closed. The building fell into disrepair, until a series of restoration projects, in 1928, 1974, and 1987.

Some of the multimedia aspects of the presentation seemed to get the kids attention, but we are not at all sure the whole thing sank in. They thought it was much more fun to make shadow figures in the projector stream, yank on the crowd control ropes, or hide under the altar. That tells us we need to wait a few more years before popping for $2000 each to take them along the Danube and show them, for example, the glorious monastery in Melk, Austria.

Much more interesting was the Cataldo Mission Inn, where we stopped for huckleberry sundaes. (Cataldo was named for one of the Jesuits). That was good enough (and cool enough) that we are planning to go back for dinner. They also have wifi. That turns out to be significant, because a closer reading of the fine print and examination of the bill, shows that OneSIM is charging me 85 cents per megabyte. That meant that yesterday's modest blog posting cost almost $10. Fortunately, it will be much, much less in Europe.

One thing Europe can not offer, though, was standing in the water right beside the trail as we returned from the Mission. Not one, but again, two Moose - again a mother and calf. They were munching up the water plants, just as they are supposed to, and they did not seem too much disturbed to have us there. We were close enough to hear the sloosh sloosh of their legs as they walked slowly forward. Dodie spotted them first, so she has now been promoted to chief moose spotter, a big jump from her former lowly position!

We continue to spot wildlife in the area. Here is a ladybug with an unfamiliar design

Canada Geese on the river. They flew upstream and floated back down.

A small sawmill operation nevertheless had a big scary loader.

This osprey left its nest and scolded us - as we were coming, and going

This parent had its ducks in a row. What is the secret?

We crossed I-90 on the way to the mission. The GPS suggested we should cycle along it. Not!

The entrance of the interpretation centre

The main focus of the display, is also a book.

The church and parrish house, from below

Celing panels were stained with huckleberry

Priestly vestments in a side room, also showing the rough wall

Flash: The Cataldo Mission Inn came up with very respectable home cooking. How about this - my side salad had a sugar pea in it. That might be thge only green pea in Idaho!

Today's ride: 15 km (9 miles)
Total: 85 km (53 miles)

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