I had Jacinto lined up for an 8 AM depart, after emphasizing several times during our day off how I don't do heat well. Not that he hasn't seen me overheat before. 8 AM perhaps wasn't as early as I would like, but it was far earlier than he would!
We were rolling away at 8:20. I count that as a win. We had to push our loaded bikes to the top of the steep street before we could get on. I was happy we made our way out of town without getting lost. One advantage to the late business hours is the lack of morning traffic.
Today was firmly in the fun zone. Jacinto was happy about all of the climbs and descents. I was happy how well I handled them! We were on country roads all day, with little traffic. We saw several individual bicycle riders and one group of ~six. In a small town a little long furred dog came out and chased Jacinto. I was going so slowly that I think it wasn't fair for the dog to pretend he was chasing me! He could have taken a nap and still caught me. Happily, he was more bark, and no bite.
We have had a north wind for days and days that has been helpful. We've discussed several times that we are going to be turning the corner and heading back. Then that helpful wind will be against us. Today it was just windy enough to cool me off. Temperatures stayed under 100, and we were riding earlier. Both were to my advantage. I had started with two frozen bottles of water. I still had the tiniest bit of ice as we approached Monsaraz. The terrain had leveled off some, and I was making better time, congratulating myself on a day almost completed and well done. Then I looked up the hill and reminded myself that our destination was a castle. A castle on the hill. Damn. Jacinto's computer tells him how long climbs are and how many feet of climbing. The final approach was 500 feet of climbing in a mile. Some of it was at 14%. Double damn. I did very well until we hit the cobblestones. Then I stopped. Jacinto continued on for a short stretch, then walked also. I had to stop at each corner and take a little break. It wasn't much of an imposition. The views were worth it.
We did not get lost once! Two turns and we were in town. Our lodging was down on the left. The door was locked. Check in is at 3 PM. We have two hours to kill. We ate at the closest restaurant that was open. It was a covered rooftop restaurant that was pricey. We were paying for the view, I'm sure. We drank two liters of water and Jacinto had a Coke.
By the time we finished eating, it was after 3 PM. There were three motorcycle riders outside of our lodging, but then they left. I imagine they did not have reservations and had to continue on to the next town? We have a downstairs suite by the office of the Casa Pinto. Our bicycles are in the reservation area. I think they could have gone in our living room fine, but that's where they lady wanted them. There's breakfast in the morning, but not until 9 AM. There's one grocery in town, but google says it sells gourmet foods. Jacinto is going to walk over and check it out.He is carrying cooked scrambled eggs from this morning and a couple of yogurts. I'm concerned about eating them after they've ridden around in the sun all day. Jacinto is not concerned. It's a typical day. I have finished all of my snacks. The figs are gone. There are some salted cashews.
Edit - Jacinto walked to the grocery/gift shop. The man there was nice, and recommended Jacinto drive to the real grocery. It is only ten minutes away by car! Jacinto came back with two sodas, a can of sardines, and a package of cookies. So.
Jacinto had asked the unfriendly check in lady at the Casa Pinto about breakfast. It doesn't start until 9 AM and sounds very minimal.
We went back to the same restaurant for dinner, and had the same helpful waiter. From eavesdropping, it sounds as if he has owned the place for two years and isn't sure yet if he likes Monsaraz. I started my windup about being cyclists trying to beat the heat, etc. He smiled and said he knew where I was going, no they didn't serve breakfast. He recommended the Black Cat Restaurant that we had seen down the road. However, that wasn't my question. What I wanted to know is if we could get some hard boiled eggs. He was most happy to say he had some already boiled and would give us four. I can have hard boiled eggs with left over yogurt and a peach for breakfast. We have already scouted out a hyper market at mile 30 tomorrow. I bet they have figs. Who would think I'd be excited about figs?
Although this was a fancy restaurant, their roots must be country. Jacinto ate liver for lunch and gizzards for dinner. Wine was sold only by the bottle. We haven't encountered that anywhere else. We drank two liter bottles of water at lunch and one at dinner.
Typical scenery for the day when the ground was irrigated.
Kelly IniguezI should have been faster getting off the bike so I could see over the weeds. I would have gotten more than their backsides. I wasn't sure what I was looking at to start. Reply to this comment 9 months ago
Kelly IniguezTo Genny FoxI thought they were ranch hogs allowed to roam free. Common opinion seems to be that they are nuisance, wild hogs.
We don't like the Iberian ham here - I hardly dare say that, being a source of pride and all. You could have come on this trip, we have found non fish options every place. It's easier if you don't mind eating pork. Reply to this comment 9 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Kelly IniguezI don’t think they’re wild. A lot of this country is managed as dehesas (in Spain) or montados (in Portugal)- basically, open grass/oak savannas where the domestic stock roams free grazing on acorns. Pigs raised for Iberian ham and bulls for bullfighting are some of the main products. Reply to this comment 9 months ago
Jacinto got 28 miles out of his expensive new handlebar tape before it started peeling on both sides. He hopes it is just the top surface that comes off.
This house has a fancier than usual tile by the front gate. I’m not sure why they have all of the water bottles along the top. To discourage birds and animals?
