To Marvao, Portugal

June 28, 2023

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Scott AndersonHey, it looks like you stayed at Dom Dinis! That’s the same place we stayed ten years ago.
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9 months ago

Jacinto fell on a section like this, with two walls. He hit the ground, otherwise his shoulder might have really been hurt. He was too busy assessing the damage to take a photo at the actual location. Edit - now that I look again, I think the photo that Scott shared with me for the cover page of this journal is from that exact area where Jacinto fell!

Today was one of the bigger climbing days of the trip. I announced I would be skipping the free breakfast and leaving early. Jacinto had walked to the store for dinner and breakfast supplies. For dinner we had scrambled eggs with veggies. Jacinto said it was the best meal of the trip, all he needed was tortillas.

For breakfast I ate two hard boiled eggs, two yogurts, and muesli. I had Jacinto buy me a nectarine. I didn't end up eating it during the day, and now it is sad looking. The apples here haven't been as good as at home, but they travel better. My bananas are looking poorly also. What really went down well today was the figs. I had asked for dried apricots, and figs was the closest Jacinto could get. They were like little bites of energy! I will continue looking for figs this trip.

I had gotten up before the alarm, and was hoping to get going early, but was out the door at 7:30. There wasn't a hint of fresh in the air. I had to push up the driveway, coast back to the main road, and then get in the granny gear. Everyone needs a sweaty granny gear climb to start their day, right? I was riding in the full sun, not a bit of shade to cool me off. This might be a long day.

I had two long climbs before the road leveled off to a moderate climb. I felt more optimistic there. Today was short on miles, long on climbing. I kept waking up last night thinking of the climb. Then I would tell myself to go back to sleep, I need rest. I was very happy we had AC that worked well, and I slept well.

So far, there had been plenty of Colorado style climbing. My definition being a grade I can ride for extended periods of time, which is usually not more than 6%. I was feeling optimistic about the day at this point.

By the time I got to the outskirts of Castelo de Vide, the climb was getting steeper, and I was definitely hotter. I had not seen a gas station, but Jacinto had mentioned how much stopping for a cold drink and ice had helped him on the long day from La Alberca. I called Jacinto to see where he was. Way behind me. Heck. I wanted him to guide me through town. In Nisa I had taken every direction but the correct one! Small roads are so confusing. They aren't marked, and if they do have signs, they are so small I can't read them.

Just when I was doing the mental math of how long would I take to get there at this pace, a gas station sign appeared! Hurray. I had 20E that Jacinto gave me for just such a situation. I bought a lemonade that I had to ask the attendant to open because my hands were so sweaty. I also bought a bag of ice for 1.99. I would have paid far more. I filled up my two bottles and had a stroke of genius. I would put some ice cubes in a baggie, and put it in my bra to cool me off. Why have I never thought of this? I hope the attendant didn't notice my new arrangement. I had to use google translate to ask her to save the rest of the bag of ice for Jacinto.

I was off again, and felt really good. The lemonade hit the spot. All was well until I hit the cobblestones at Escusa. Not only were they cobblestones, but the roads were steep, narrow, and not well marked. I made several false starts and stops. A white haired man driving a little pick up passed me at an intersection, and then stopped in the middle of the narrow road, as is common. I thought that was where I needed to go. I was riding at that point, but had to get off to walk in the narrow space left next to his truck. I got to the top of the climb, and the road disappeared. This must not be my direction. Of course the man knew I wasn't getting anywhere up that road. He was standing there watching me. I turned my bike around and walked back down. I asked him in Spanish for Marvao. He answered in Portuguese. That did me no good. It helps that the Spain border is only three miles past Marvao. We did some charades, and ascertained that the road to the left, that I had already tried once, did indeed go to Spain. He watched me walk back down. I gestured again, he answered again. OK - here I go up this very steep cobblestone road.

I had 7.7 miles to go and was pushing the bike. How long would it take at this rate? I had to stop and rest several times. The ice in my bra had melted, and my attitude along with it. The pavement came back. It was still very steep, but I managed to get started again. In no time, I was back to cobblestones. I had some very bad thoughts. Mostly about how the castle back down the road was probably very nice, and what was I doing sweating in the sun to torture myself on cobblestones. I ate a fig, and swigged some still cold water. That helped. A few text messages from Oren helped. What helped the very most of all was hitting the main road, and the grade getting more reasonable and i could ride. I did have a small problem. It was hot enough that my phone was overheating and RWGPS wasn't working properly for cues. Looking at the map, there's two sections where it's a straight line on my RWGPS route. I was getting closer and closer. RWGPS counted down the feet for me. I watched it very closely, not wanting to go even one foot more than I had to. I had a cue to turn left, on a cobblestone footpath entering the castle. Hell. Is that where I"m supposed to go? I was enjoying riding on the paved road. What if I just stay on the paved road? What if I sit in the shade and wait for Jacinto to arrive, and l wouldn't have to make any more decisions. I thought about that for a minute. Probably it would be more painful to wait for him than to muddle through finding my own way. Pushing my bike wearing bike cleats is tough. I had 886 feet to go, and gave up on the bike shoes. I got my regular shoes out, and started pushing up the cobblestone path to the castle. Even in my whiney state, feeling like a two year old in full tantrum mode, I had to admit that walking through the castle was something special that I had never experienced before. I stopped for a few photos. I got to a roadway that was so narrow, I don't know how cars could drive through. But here came a woman in a car. I smiled at her as I tried to hurry my long bike out of the way. She could barely pass. I'm sure she dealt with this on a regular basis and didn't have any patience for tourists. She definitely didn't return my smile. I hadn't pushed much further and here came a van. I got out of his way into a welcoming little seating area with shade. Perhaps I would sit here and wait for Jacinto? The man was driving a van that said panadaria on the side. He pulled over, and a couple of people came out. He looked at me questioningly a couple of times. I don't know if he was questioning my condition, or if I wanted some pan. He ended up pulling out, and driving down the road honking his horn. I guess that's how the locals know he's in the neighborhood. Now street signs had names of the hotels and attractions. Our hotel was listed. I carefully followed the signs. I knew that we were right across from the municipal complex. Here it is, but where is the hotel? I could see an open cafe. the first one in the town. Perhaps I would go eat and then I could make better decisions. Just then Jacinto caught up to me. We agreed to go eat. We parked our bikes at the municipal complex, and walked to the restaurant. It was advertising a buffet for 14E. I looked back to see where Jacinto was. Look! Right there, across from the restaurant was our hotel. How could we not see that? I'm not surprised.

We went inside. The buffet was finishing at 2 PM. It was 2. They showed us the food that was left. Jacinto said let's eat, this is way better than the sandwiches we've had the past two days, and we haven't seen a grocery yet. They had pork steaks, spinach, rice, soup, salad without any dressing at all, and some sort of pudding for dessert. We got full, and it was way better than the dry sandwich yesterday. The woman at the cash register spoke English and she followed us across the street to the hotel - doing double duty!

Our bikes are downstairs in a little courtyard. We are up some very steep stone stairs to our nice room with working AC. I've had a shower. My stomach is full. My legs may or may not work later. My attitude is far better now. Although Marveo looks like a town that is totally dependent on tourists, you'd never know to come here until you know. the Andersons' clued us in on this little corner of Portugal. I had my doubts there on the cobblestones, but I'm feeling much more optimistic now. The cobblestones didn't last that long in distance, but in time, they felt endless.

It’s so hot here that even the hotel is air drying their linens!

It’s not my best side, but I sure wasn’t riding up the driveway on cold legs. Later in the day I had a chance to perfect my pushing technique. One hand on the bars, the other on the seat. Jacinto says he rode up, but had to keep his weight forward so the front wheel didn’t lift up.

The view of the Tagus River from our hotel.

The Tagus River from the bridge leaving town.

At mile seven there was a busy natural spring. Jacinto said when he rode up, there was only one woman and she was soaking her feet in the trough. He said his water did not taste like feet.

A cork truck exits the roadway. I still need a photo of cork trees.

This looks like fireweed to me, but I don’t think of it as a warm weather flower? I saw one patch the entire day, on both sides of the road.

There was an information sign next to this house that was completely white from the sun.

I saw the old bridge from the new one and had to take the side road for a view. Nope. I don’t think I get to count this as a Roman bridge.

I was feeling pretty perky after getting ice. Then the cobblestones started. They were as horrible as they look! Jacinto fell on a steep section and bruised his hand, bunged his elbow, and now his shoulder makes a noise when he rotates it. But, he finally took off the KT tape and thinks his knee did okay today.

I have never entered through the castle gates before!

I still had to push the bike up the streets of Marvao. At least there was a smooth section in the center.

Castelo de Vida has a castle and a cathedral. Did we stay there? No!

Instead we climbed way up here to this castle!

Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 501 miles (806 km)

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Scott AndersonJust a thought, if you aren’t locked in on your ride to Elvas yet. Your map indicates you’ve got a 58 mile ride, through Monforte. Given the heat you might consider this route instead which is ten miles shorter, has less climbing, and probably quieter: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/43465643. We’ve ridden nearly all of it, and it was a great route.
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9 months ago

Janice BranhamHard day with all those cobbles and steeps. You are tough! I'm going to remember that ice cube in the bra maneuver.
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9 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo Scott AndersonOh, yes, we have changed our route to the direct version. I don’t remember if there was a castle we were supposed to be seeing or if Jacinto just wanted more miles, but we are going straight there! I also double checked that we are not riding down the cobblestones!

Unfortunately, I asked our lodging in Elvas if we could get in early, because of the heat and we are on bicycles. They replied that they understand, but check in is 4 PM. That is the first place this trip that hasn’t let us in early. We are still riding this morning, but will hopefully find a place to eat and hang out. We missed the grocery last night, so are eating the provided breakfast and getting out a little later than I would like, but we are riding together, which is really nice for me.
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9 months ago