Day 5: Ashland to Jacksonville via the hills

June 1, 2020

The first 3 pictures were taken yesterday in Ashland. In Lithia Park I walked half a mile upstream from the plaza. The first half is landscaped park. The second half is urban forest that connects to the mountains. Lithia Park has bear-proof trash cans.

A portion of the Ashland Plaza. To the left is the main entrance to Lithia Park.

I've seen the wading area packed with parents and young children on a hot summer day. Today it's deserted because of unusually cool and cloudy weather.

Ashland creek in Lithia Park, in the middle of a city of 22,000 people.

I had breakfast at a coffee shop/cafe just a few steps outside the back door of Columbia hotel. Service was good because they weren't busy. The proprietor told me he is getting 20% of his usual summer business. Last night I noticed that most of the lights are dark at Lithia Springs hotel. The hotel is nearly vacant.

The sky was dense overcast when I left Ashland at 9:15. Today is hilly but the distance is short. Low clouds prevented me from seeing the nearby Siskiyou mountains south of Ashland. During this tour I was never able to see the highest mountains.

The morning was still too cloudy for me to see Mt. Ashland to the south.

I pedaled north from downtown Ashland on old highway 99. I've pedaled it before. Flat and easy, moderate traffic, minimal shoulder. South of Talent I turned onto Talent road which climbs a steep hill for no apparent reason. In the town of Talent I turned left onto Pioneer road which I followed for several miles into the hills. It has many historic farm houses and some new vineyards.

Today's route is very hilly. County roads are steeper than state highways. The first big hill topped out at 8% grade. The second big hill topped out at 12% grade. That got me sweaty.
The rapid growth of vineyards is kind of alarming. They change the visual character but do bring investment, jobs, and tourists.

I was not surprised to see that Pioneer road does have a number of historic farm houses. That kind of made up for the drudgery of the hill climbing.

One of several old farm houses along Pioneer road.

Final climb in the foothills. Sunny now.

I was hoping for good views during the 600 foot descent to Jacksonville. Maybe a view of Mt. McLoughlin. The clouds are finally gone but tall trees obstructed the view all the way down.

I was hoping for panoramic views during the descent to Jacksonville.

I arrived in Jacksonville at 1 PM and Jacksonville Inn was kind enough to let me have my room right away. The receptionist made a joke about cyclists sleeping all afternoon. I told her I plan to look around town, take a nap, then look around town again.

Jacksonville Inn is the oldest place I have ever slept. Built in 1861, three U.S. presidents have slept here.

Jacksonville boomed in the 1850's thanks to gold mines. In many respects my historic town of Oakland looks like a smaller and poorer version of Jacksonville. Oakland didn't have gold mines.

I enjoyed walking around Jacksonville looking at all the old buildings. The surrounding residential neighborhoods are also very interesting.

New city hall. Former Jackson county courthouse.

The morning was cool and cloudy but the temperature warmed to 80F during the sunny afternoon. Typical June weather in southwest Oregon. Finally back to normal.

Methodist Episcopal church built in 1854.

Old fire station and jail in the back of the old city hall.

I had an awesome seafood primavera dinner on the patio at the Bella Union cafe and bar. The patio was nearly empty when I arrived and I got very fast service. Half an hour later every table was filled with locals. The restaurant just reopened today! What a treat to have memorable outdoor dining two evenings in a row.

Dinner on the patio of Bella Union bar and grill. They just reopened today.

After dinner I wandered up the hill through Britt Gardens to the Britt Festival grounds. I was surprised that the gates were open and I was able to walk around the amphitheater. It's an awesome performance shed with a big grassy hill behind the seats.

Britt Gardens on the former Peter Britt estate.

The Britt Festival ground holds thousands of people but has almost no parking. There is, however, a big bus unloading loop at the entrance. I assume they run shuttle buses to Medford and Ashland.

Reserved seating area at Britt Amphitheater.

Tonight's room at Jacksonville Inn is fancier than last night's room at Columbia Hotel. This room has a private bath, air conditioning, and a TV. Same as last night, Jacksonville Inn is not handicap accesssible. The guest rooms are all on the second floor accessible only by outside stairways. I counted 28 stairs.

Once again I was allowed to bring my bike into my room. I very surprised because the place is both historic and upscale.

I booked the room before the pandemic when the hotel was still serving breakfast. When I checked in I was told the room is discounted $15 because they no longer serve breakfast. Fortunately there is a good breakfast cafe 2 blocks away. Jacksonville Inn was the most expensive night of the tour, $166 after the discount.

My room at Jacksonville Inn has A/C, TV, and a private bath.

I enjoyed spending the afternoon in Jacksonville. It has a reputation as Oregon's best historic town but is not crowded with tourists. A great place for a bike touring history buff to visit.

Jacksonville is not a good destination for people on a tight budget. The only lodging is expensive historic properties. No motels or campgrounds. Budget travelers would want to spend a few hours in Jacksonville, then spend the night 10 miles away in Medford.

Distance: 22.6 mi. (36.2 km)
Ascent/Descent: +1646/-1981 ft. (+502/-604 m)
Average Speed: 8 mph (12.8 km/h)

Today's ride: 23 miles (37 km)
Total: 173 miles (278 km)

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