Very little expectations on the quality of cycling over the next three days. This particular cross-cut from the Gulf of Thailand to the Andaman Sea is probably the least admirable way to change sides but the most pragmatic option on my way from Surat to Koh Lanta. I would possibly have chosen a wider angle including some of the inland National Parks but with the change of houses awaiting me back in Trang before I leave for Malaysia and New Zealand I need a pretty direct route.
The only no-no is rolling down one of the major traffic arterias on the way. The #41 north-southbound or the #44 going west-east. My choice for leaving Surat this morning was the #4009. The normal rule "the more digits - the smaller the road" can be misleading when google maps shows a straight line. This is an indication it may be a fairly recently built road, often in the same setup like the big highways. Like the #4009. Very dusty with heaps of fast flying traffic. I was hoping at least the amount of vehicles would ease once through the intersection with the #44 but it wasn´t much better than before. About 15 km from Ban Nasan I checked my options and found an eastern "bypass" adding 5 km to my total but this didn´t bother me as I wasn´t out for a long day anyway. And what a winner that choice was! A rural hamlet-river-mountain joyride. Unfortunately I cant provide any more details as the road had no name. I just turned left in a village with a PT gas station on the left....
Back on the #4009 at Ban Nasan things had improved regarding the amount of traffic and the shoulder was excellent. But it still was highway conditions. Despite having only 20 km to go I decided to have another drink stop and check for some side road options. As I was about to halt at a little shop I saw the sign for rail tracks. Eureka! One of my very few bright moments as I remembered sitting on the left hand side in the train on my way up to Chumphon, looking at the small road directly next to the rails. I thought then it might be nice to roll along there but simply forgot to consider it as an option while being in Surat Thani. The next access to this road with continuation into Ban Song / Wiang Sa was at Phruphi and that´s exactly where I crossed over. Lovely end to a day that had much better cycling than I thought before leaving in the morning.
Wiang Sa is a busy, non-descript town with a decent hotel next to the #4009+41 intersection. The Anchalee Garden Hotel is a modern, clean place with huge rooms for 590 Baht. Only in Thai script on google maps, it is on the northeastern part of the big intersection...
How nice! When I checked out at the My Place Hotel I was given this handwritten postcard. No question where I will be staying when coming back to Surat Thani...
My friends Jane and Gee used to run a nice little cafe in Trang but have now moved residence and business to Surat Thani, his home town. Until they moved, Gee played football (soccer) for the Thai National Team but has called that a day now. Shame, would have loved to see him perform against Germany....
Lunch: I am usually not very keen on pork belly but if it is done like in this small restaurant in Ban Nasan I do admire the meal: Pak kanaa moo grob - Chinese kale with fried pork. The whole pork belly is grilled and dried. While preparing the meal in the restaurant they cut the meat into dices and fry it in the wok before the kale is added. Crunchy delight!
I really enjoyed this particulat view up the stream. If you look closely you will spot the temple amidst the jungle on the right and although I had to turn right for Ban Nasan at the adjacent T-junction I decide to go and have a closer look....
...being welcomed by the head monk and one of his young novices. The temples often serve as orphanage which is rewarded with some donation from my side.
Match! Fortunately the Thai people like colours as much as I do and this band of orange and yellow flowers continued all the way along the aforementioned rail-road into Ban Song
I hope you don´t mind me continuing with my little food series. I just would like to help you enjoying Thai food as much as I do and sometimes just pointing at things may not be good enough..... My dinner: Khao Naa Paed - Grilled duck on rice. One of the more expensive dishes abroad, here they asked for 60 Baht, a bit less than 2 €
Still makes me laugh.... I had some important internet business to do and asked for a room "not too far away" from the router. "mee, mee" - have, have was the response. True! The router was exactly 47 cm away from my pillow...
