This morning was an early start - and earlier than my norm by a lot. Around 4 or 5 am awoke to the sound of a screaming alarm. I poked my head out the door as did the couple across the hall from me. We were all ok and after a while the alarm stopped and all was quiet. I returned to bed and fell right back asleep.
I woke up for real and checked the time to find it was 844 am. What?! Breakfast started at 9 am and I wanted to be rolling as soon as possible, so I got moving and made it for 9 am with a few minutes to spare. It was worth it too. All kinds of delicious things including really tasty and sweet orange and pineapple sections. I had a bunch. Or a clump. Or quite a few.
I zipped back to my room to put on my cycling gear, including my coat as it was cool out at the moment. The same desk clerk from yesterday opened up the tower where my bike had been locked up for the night then as a leaving guest offered a gift from the hotel of a small cloth bag with cookies from the castle. I thanked her, but declined as I need no more stuff to carry on the bike.
The first part of the ride was paved until I got to the point where the unpaved bike path, the highway (N603) and the motorway ran in parallel. I decided on the bike path. Within the first 500 m there wsa a cyclist sitting on a bench with his bike beside him so I stopped to say hello. He was in his 70s and looked a bit funny so I asked him if he was ok. He said he was feeling a bit off likely since he hadn't eaten since yesterday. I offered him a packet of electrolyte powder to add to his water and soon afterwards he said he felt better.
As we chatted, along came a couple of peregrinos who were on the Camino. Aha - so this bike route was actually an official Camino de Santiago route! As the day progressed I saw quite a few yellow arrows and numerous stylized conch shells indicating the route. We chatted a bit and then I carried on. I would like to have continued on the dirt path but there were many long sandy sections that were so mushy I couldn't ride through them and had to get off the bike. At the next opportunity I went across to the N603 and continued on that for a while.
Today I pulled out my brand new pannier covers. They'll keep the sun from fading the black Cordura and they will be visible to approaching traffic from behind. Hopefully with that and the flashing tail light cars will give me wide berth. So far, they do. -- Near Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain
I eventually came to another point of intersection with the paved and dirt paths. I remember seeing this point online so I gave it another shot. I traveled alongside many fields and usually the path was packed dirt or gravel though occasionally sandy sections where I had to push. There were some sections that were merely two dirt ruts through the grass, and there was some climbing up some hills which had amazing views north toward Zamora. Along the way there were a number of peregrinos, some cycle tourists, and some local mountain bikers. But not a single motorized vehicle.
I came to a spot where I had to decide whether to stick to a paved minor road, or follow a dirt path which was an actual Camino de Santiago route. Guess which one I chose? -- south of Zamora, Spain
I came to a spot where I had to decide whether to stick to a paved minor road, or follow a dirt path which was an actual Camino de Santiago route. Guess which one I chose? -- south of Zamora, Spain
I came to a spot where I had to decide whether to stick to a paved minor road, or follow a dirt path which was an actual Camino de Santiago route. Guess which one I chose? -- south of Zamora, Spain
Somewhere in the diatance is the city of Zamora, but before I got there I had a lot of dirt path, and soft sand riding through farmer's fields to get there. Tricky cycling - yes. But oh so beautiful. -- south of Zamora, Spain
With about 10 km to go I reached a paved section by a farm which then led to a highway which led to town. I approached the river and while crossing looked over and there was another Roman Bridge. Those Romans were so darned industrious! Hard to imagine there were people living in this area for so many centuries.
As I arrived to Zamora I looked over to the left where I saw the Roman Bridge and parts of the Old City. -- Zamora, Spain
My wonderful GPS led me right to the hotel and I rolled in through the sliding doors where the very pleasant desk clerk checked me in. Then he told me I could store my bike in the office behind the main desk where it would be safe and sound all night he assured me.
I dumped my gear into my room then asked the desk clerk about a restaurant but he kind of winced and told me that because it is communion day for many children plus a long weekend, the restaurants would all be full. He suggested tapas at one of the many bars down the street. I ended up having grilled pork on a skewer and my first glass of vino tinto for the trip. Both delicious.
This is mostly to remind myself, but this is my little room in my hotel. -- Zamora, Spain
The hotel desk clerk told me most restaurants would be full due to the long weekend and that I should go for tapas instead. So here I had pinchos muronos and my first glass of vino tinto. Both delicious. -- Zamora, Spain
The next part of the plan was to walk down to the Plaza Mayor en route to the Puente Romana, though it was getting pretty hot out. Once I realized that I had turned left instead of right and headed the wrong way for about 1 km, I got back on track and wandered the beautiful old city.
In the centre of the Plaza Mayor sits the imposing Iglesia de San Jan de Puerta Nueva. -- Zamora, Spain
Anyone who has experienced Semana Santa will recognize this garb from the numerous processions. Many posters remain around the towns since Semana Santa was only a few weeks ago. -- Zamora, Spain
The winding streets that lead down to the Roman Bridge are packed with bars and restaurants but are closed and empty now since it is past 4 pm. -- Zamora, Spain
On my return through the old sections I kept my eyes peeled for a convenience or grocery store but found nothing. In general, many places were permanently shut down and for sale or rent, but nothing open that I was looking for. When I got to my hotel there was a new clerk and I asked her and she pointed out a small supermarket about 300 m away that was open. I headed right there to quench my huge thirst with a Fanta Limón and a dessert of a Milka chocolate bar. They were fully enjoyed when I got back to the comfort of my room.
Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles) Total: 113 km (70 miles)
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Kelly IniguezGreat photos - we were just there and I recognize most of the spots. Your photo of the semana santa statues and the police station are top notch. Reply to this comment 10 months ago
