To Šibenik

September 3, 2018

Let’s defrost

In a romantic mist

Let’s get crossed

Off everybody’s list

To celebrate this night we found each other

Mmm, let’s get lost

Chet Baker

Arrival

We arrived in Šibenik today in the same fashion that we arrived in Korcula and Trogir: lost, and unable to find our accommodations without assistance. There’s just something about these millennium-old street layouts that thwarts Google Maps, Booking, and RideWithGPs, or even the locals we seek navigation help from. Once again, we found ourselves a block from our room and stymied.

We got here the hard way - by first following the route I had mapped out on RideWithGPS. That led us nowhere useful, so we compared the maps on Google and the Booking application we placed our reservation with. All three resources gave us slightly different destinations, in the old city at the top of steep, twisted stair-stepped alleys. We found ourselves eventually within a block of our room, had we only known it; but after showing a hotel receptionist our address and receiving yet one more wrong instruction, I called our hostess.

She speaks almost no English, and doesn’t really understand that we are but a block away but unable to find the room. She tells us her daughter will meet us there, wherever that is, and hangs up. We receive a text a bit later, asking where we are. I call back, and ask for her daughter (who presumably speaks English) to call us. She understands and agrees, I think.

While I’m waiting for the return call, I walk down another street I haven’t tried, and come to a corner with the street name we’ve been looking for. I peek around the corner, and there’s her daughter smiling, waiting for us.

Leaving Trogir

Last night we told our hostess that we wanted to leave early the next morning and asked if there were any breakfast places nearby. She said there were only two, gave us their names and showed us on the map, but said they didn’t open until nine. That’s too late for us, so we picked up some pastries last night and just ate in the room this morning. I was a bit groggy after getting too little sleep because the weak WiFi slowed me down on the blog, and I missed my morning coffee.

When it was time to leave we called our hostess, who had been clear that for some reason she wanted to say goodbye in person when we left. She showed up just as we were wheeling out the door, along with her sister. We had a nice chat outside the entryway, and then biked off. On the sidewalk immediately outside the door or the apartment, we saw folks sitting down to coffee and breakfast at a sidewalk cafe.

Rachael discusses our swollen arm with our hostess and sister, and they sympathize.

The ride

We took the obvious route from Trogir to Sibenik, following the coastline. We went this way mostly because I wanted to see Primosten, a small historic town built on a teardrop shaped islet just off the coast. Primosten really is a beautiful sight, as was most of the coastline. The ride itself wasn’t really enjoyable though - just too much traffic threaded through too little real estate. Safe enough, but it’s hard to enjoy the scenery when you’re fully focused on keeping your lane. If we were to bike this way again I’d seek out one of the inland routes. If you’re thinking of coming this way yourself, look at Rachael’s video so you can make an informed judgement.

Most of the day’s ride closely followed the coast. On the plus side: easy riding, fair weather, phenomenal scenery. On the negative side: no shoulder, steady traffic, the occasional inconsiderate driver.

Primosten, renowned beauty spot on the Dalmation coast. We broke here for breakfast, enjoying a decent omelet. And coffee!!

Not the most uplifting message, but you must admit it’s provocative.

The Great Wall of Ostrica. Built in the late XV century to protect a nearby town from Turkish invasion.

Krapanj, the smallest and lowest profile inhabited island on the Adriatic coast. It’s maximum elevation is 1.25 meters, and its population about 200. I’d say they need to start looking around for higher ground.

Šibenik

Oh, my gosh do I like this city. I think it’s my favorite stop on the tour so far. We’re staying here for two nights, so we’ll get a longer viewing tomorrow. In the meantime though, here’s just a taste to tide you over.

A detail of the Cathedral of Saint James

Šibenik Is riddled with glistening marble-surfaced streets and alleys.

I don’t know why this surprised me, but Šibenik is a coastal town.

Back to the room after a night on the town

Heart

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Ride stats today: 39 miles, 1,700’; for the tour: 230 miles, 17,800’

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 230 miles (370 km)

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