We had several different thoughts on what we would do with our layover day in Šibenik, as long as it included plenty of time to explore the city. The weather helped us sort out our thoughts though when we awoke to thunder and a light rain. In no hurry to go anywhere, we walked down to the waterfront for omelets and coffee while we waited out the weather.
When the showers ended, we walked along the waterfront promenade to its north end and then doubled back toward the cathedral. Our thought was to arrive there at about 8:30, its opening time, and avoid the crowds. Plans changed though when the rains returned, this time with a vengeance. We didn’t want to stand around the cathedral in our wet clothes so we slowly worked our way back to the room, taking shelter under overhangs when we could. Footing was a bit difficult, between slick marble stones and staircases that had temporarily turned into waterfalls.
On the Šibenik waterfront, after the first rains had moved on.
We loafed around the room for a few hours, waiting for the weather to clear and our clothes to dry. At about noon we went out again, and made a circuit of the major sights: above all, the unique Saint James Cathedral, listed as a UNESCO world heritage site; but we also trekked up to Saint Michael’s Fortress and the Barone Fortress, for the views and to pick up a bit of the city’s history. Surprisingly, old Šibenik was protected by four fortresses. The two we visited have been restored and are open to the public; nearby Saint John’s Fortress is closed for restoration; and Saint Anne’s Fortress is apparently in ruins although we never did see where it is.
By the time we finished our walking/climbing tour it was midafternoon. There was some thought earlier in the day to fit a short bike ride in, but that was no longer practical. Priority instead went to making sure we make it to Nostalgija, a restaurant we saw last night that looked terrific to us. They don’t take reservations, and we were told we should arrive early if we want to be seated. So of course a bike ride is out. Darn.
Looking across to Saint James Fortress, from Barone Fortress. Remarkably, the citizens of the city built both of them in only two months, to protect against invasion by the approaching Turkish army.
Yes, I know we had food photos just two nights ago, in Trogir. Tonight was special though, the new best meal of the tour. I’d be derelict in my responsibilities if I didn’t document it.
We ate at Nostalgija, a small place (capacity 24) under a canopy in a church courtyard. We arrived right at six, opening time, and twelve people were already there waiting. A half hour later, five couples were patiently sitting on the wall outside sipping their drinks and waiting for their table to come around.
I’ve included the menu. We shared both salads (Dalmatian, and evergreen) and agreed that they were the best two salads so far. For mains, Rachael had sea bass, and I the double pork chop (I’m working to keep my weight up); and we had both desserts. What gluttons!
We really liked our waiter, Lorenzo. He is also a biker (and a hiker - last year he walked from Madrid to Segovia). He asked where we were going, then wanted to know if we were going into the Alps, then wanted to know if we were going to climb Stelvio. When we said we hoped so, his eyebrows raised up, and he whistled in appreciation. Now, we have to do it!
