To Seyssel

May 14, 2025

Another wonderful day on the Via Rhôna, one with blue sky, puffy clouds, chance encounters, iconic peaks, and a route barrée.

It was an easy downhill from Belley back to the Via Rhône. The first few easy miles hugged the right bank before crossing the river near Les Mûres. A short up and down brought me to Lac Du Lit Du Roi and a small marina/camping site where I stopped for some photos. And who should I find there but Patrick and Miriam, the French couple I’d met a couple of days ago near Vertrieu. We chatted a bit more - I learned that they were from western France near La Rochelle - and then they were off on their way to Seyssel.

The next couple of miles were on a straight-away, on the wrong side of a levee that blocked all views of the river. However, looming over me was Grand Colombier, the highest massif in the Bugey Mountains and an iconic climb in the Tour de France. The massif totally dominated the landscape and was a new-found friend for most of the morning.

Lac Du Lit Du Roi, with Grand Colombier rising in the distance

Lac Du Lit Du Roi seems to be particularly popular with the swan set

Patrick and Myriam head north for Seyssel

Cattle guards were invented in Canada???

Santa Claus appears to be getting fit and doing some spring cycling the Via Rhôna

The Grand Colombier, twixt clouds and the Rhône

The Via Rhôna turned away from the river near Chanaz and travelled along the Savières Canal, which connects the Rhône to Lac du Bourget. It was a lively but short stretch, with canal boats, cafés and an arched pedestrian bridge across the canal. I immediately recognized the two bikes parked near the bridge as belonging to Patrick and Myriam. Naturally I parked Vivien George and climbed up for another opportunity to share smiles, photos, and contact information.

Canal boats passing under the pedestrian bridge on the Savières Canal

Chanaz, as seen from the pedestrian bridge

Once again, I lingered taking photos while Patrick and Myriam departed with a “see you soon” certainty that we would meet up again on our way to Seyssel. But shortly after leaving Chanaz I convinced myself that I had somehow lost the Via Rhôna cycleway. Up until then, the route signage had been excellent, with bike icons on the road as well as sign posts at most intersections. Though I was following the RWGPS blue line downloaded from the Via Rhôna web site, I seemed to be traveling through a signage desert.

I was stopped checking my route when Chris and Phillipe stopped by, quickly confirming that I was indeed on the Via Rhôna. They are long-time residents of the area were on a two day tour to St-Genix-sur-Guiers. We bantered a bit about a road closure up ahead – they said it should be no problem as long as I could swim! In all seriousness, they said the trail was washed out but passable and so encouraged me to ignore the deviation. And I did.

The Route Barrée sign was not blocking the road so I pushed ahead, following my track through a forested area. I was encouraged to see a few cyclists coming toward me, including one with a Burley in tow. Soon however, I came across two work trucks parked near a road closure sign. The workers were on a lunch break and didn’t try to stop me so I kept on, only this time on foot. There were large heaps of gravel leading up to an impassable washed out area but a narrow, well-worn path ran to the side. The path continued for a couple of hundred yards and then widened to a muddy, puddle-filled track. Recalling my misadventures in Tanzania, I continued to walk until reaching a paved surface. Back on the bike, I soon met up with the northern end of the deviation, safe and happy for the little adventure.

Passing by Église Sainte-Appolonie de Chanaz on the way out of town

Phillip and Chris - a Frenchman and Brit who convinced I was in the right place and headed for a mini-adventure

Route Ferme sees a tad more serious than Route Barrée - especially when paired with a pile of gravel across the road

Yep, pretty washed out. But wait, isn't that a small path on the right

The washout occurred a bend in the river, and seemed not to have been a one-off event

It was getting pretty hungry out by the time I exited the forest and so began the search for a nice picnic spot. Finding nothing, I pulled into school parking lot in Serrières-en-Chautagne and sat in the shade against the school. Sadly, the pita sandwich I'd purchased at a Belley bakery that morning was too soggy to eat. I chowed down my cookie, tossed my sandwich and moved on.

The remaining miles to Seyssel included a bit of everything – steep wine-covered hillsides, munching cattle, and some varied terrain that took me up/down/up and down again to the Rhône. I crossed the Suspended Bridge of Seyssel to my hotel and although I'd arrived early I was graciously checked in to my room with a view.

On the Via Rhôna near Serrières-en-Chautagne

The small herd was too busy munching to pay attention to me, although the cow of the right seems to be giving me the eye

Crossing the Suspended Bridge at Seyssel

I went out for a stroll before dinner to do a little exploring of Seyssel Haute Savoie, the portion of the town located on the left bank of the river. I enjoyed a nice meal at the Hôtel du Rhone restaurant but the best course was meeting a group of four Germans from Munich who were on their way south to the Mediterranean. They were bubbling with excitement of having just completed their first day on the Via Rhôna, poring over map books and eager to share their journey with a stranger like me

It was another of today’s many encounters with touring cyclists reminding me that although I spend much time solo touring, I am never really alone.

From the left - Thomas, Rita, Eva and Willie. Hailing from Munich and bound for the Mediterranean

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Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 395 miles (636 km)

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