June 22, 2025
To Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges
There are a number of celebrated climbs and passes strung along the French Pyrenees, names renown from multiple inclusions in the Tour de France and CycleBlaze journals: Tourmalet, Aspins, Hourquette, Peyrésourde, Soulor and Aubisque. I dreamed of testing myself on some of these climbs and so avidly read and re-read CB journals from those intrepid tourers, especially the women who have crossed these mountains on loaded bikes (chapeau to Jacquie, Ann, Rachael, Suzanne and others I may have missed). However, after the past week in the foothills I came to realize that conquering all of the classic cols was beyond my abilities at this stage in life, and in this heat. And so I considered my options going forward – cycle over the high passes or around through the foothills. Today I chose a route through the foothills to Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges.
Rain during the night had brought lower temperatures, though highs were predicted to be in the mid-80s. Warm, but better than mid-90s. The owners of Le Jardin Blue gave me a ham sandwich for the road and I set off under mostly sunny skies about a quarter to ten. The route took me up past Saint-Lizier and headed west across the Salat River. The landscape was fairly uninteresting, up and down on small or medium-sized, low-traffic roads through a mix of fields and woodlands. But while my surroundings were a bit blah, the day was marked with surprises and kindness.
Just outside the small village of Saleich I came across Qu'es Aquò, an interesting-looking establishment that compelled me to take a closer look. I first noticed the food truck specializing in African cuisine, then the long shaded porch with couches and comfy chairs. Another food truck specialized in cheese, fruit, and local products. On entering building, I found a bar, small grocery store, as well as a reading and game room. I ordered an Orangina from the bar, a strawberry tarte from the food truck, and parked myself on a comfy couch for a long nice break in the shade. A welcome oasis from the rising heat and humidity.
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 1 | Link |
| Heart | 6 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The remaining 25 miles to Saint-Bertrand were a grind. I’d left the shade of the woodlands and toiled up and down the foothills through an open landscape. The afternoon sun beat down and I stopped often to rest, most anywhere I could find a little shade. At one point, I was just leaning against a building in a shaded side street when a kind women came out and filled my water bottle. After mulitple miles and several stops I spotted La Cathédral Sainte-Marie rising above the medieval city of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges – I was almost “home.”
| Heart | 1 | Comment | 1 | Link |
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 0 | Link |
I pedaled partway up the hill to Saint-Bertrand, but after the first ramp up decided to push Vivien George up the shorter but steeper back entrance to the Hotel Candide. Vivien George was shown to her place on the patio and I retreated to my room until dinner at the hotel. Afterwards, I explored a bit of the town – everything was pretty much shuttered and the streets were empty but the evening sky cast a magical glow on this medieval gem. Thanks Sanna for the recommendation to visit Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges.
Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 902 miles (1,452 km)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 9 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |