June 15, 2025
To Perpignan
Today’s destination was Perpignan, located in the southwest corner of France and while not actually on the border with Spain, I considered it close enough for my purposes. I'd purchased my train ticket and reserved a spot for Vivien George in advance and we arrived at Toulouse Matabiau about 40 minutes before our train was due to depart. As I stood in the large waiting area staring at the departure board I noticed signs for the elevator. I’ve taken trains to/from Toulouse many times but I’d always used the stairs, not even realizing there was an elevator. Obviously this was something that needed exploring. The elevator signs led me down a long hallway lined with gift shops and into another waiting area – one with prominent Arrival and Departure screens and two elevators! That of course made everything much easier.
Platform 7 flashed on the departure screen and after a quick trip down and up the elevators I rolled VG onto the bike car and into a space reserved for three bikes, leaning against the side of the car. Two more bikes came on board before we departed Toulouse and I found myself next to the e-bike owner, Jesus, who was on his way home to Girona after a tour along the French Atlantic Coast. By the time we reached Perpignan, there were six bikes in the bike car, which required a pretty coordinated dance to extract the four disembarking bikes and their accompanying panniers, suitcase and a dog. But everyone kept calm and the exits were completed with time to spare during the five minute stop.
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We arrived in Perpignan around noon and I had arranged to drop off the bike and bags at the hotel while I got something to eat and take a walk about the town. It was a pleasant surprise to find my room ready for check-in. After a bit of washing up, I set out for a fine meal at a small, family-owned restaurant. Arriving with no reservation, I was graciously shown to the only unoccupied table in the place. As I was dining alone, the hostess thoughtfully brought over a magazine and the local newspaper for me to read while waiting for my meal, a throwback to a time we didn’t go anywhere without our smartphones
After lunch I set out to explore Perpignan, a city that was the capital of the Kingdom of Majorca in the 13th Century. Over the centuries, the city’s historical affiliations fluctuated between Catalonia and France, and it did not become a permanent French possession until the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1692, The city today retains a “significant” Catalan influence and the extensive historic center is known for colored houses lining picturesque streets and alleyways. It is just the sort of place where I can lose myself for a couple of hours. And so I did.
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After a few hours of roaming the historic district, I retreated to my hotel and had a wonderful conversation with fellow Cycle Blazers Steve and Ann Maher-Weary, intrepid conquerors of the French Pyrenees. They shared lots of good advise and we exchanged loads of information about our various travels. I was left feeling slightly less hesitant regarding my ambitious goals for this Pyrenees adventure.
I finished the day with a trip to Thai Street Food for a crispy chicken Thai salad and then tried to still my restless brain, active as ever on the eve of a new tour.
Today's ride: 1 mile (2 km)
Total: 719 miles (1,157 km)
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