To Paris

July 5, 2025 to July 6, 2025

A Pair of Positive Train Rides

The return trip to Paris was by train, but I thankfully have no traumatic train rides to report. Instead, I share two positive and uplifting experiences on French trains.

First, some background. Although there is a high-speed TGV between Biarritz and Paris, I decided to break the trip into two separate train rides: Biarritz to Bordeaux and Bordeaux to Paris. One reason was a desire to spend a bit more time exploring Biarritz - though I had no intention of taking a dip in the ocean, the thought of spending time at a fancy seaside city had some appeal. My plan was to take a late afternoon train to Bordeaux where I would spend the night and catch an early morning train to Paris.

The second reason for breaking up the trip is that navigating the TGV with a bike is way, way easier if you get on at the departure station and get off at the arrival station. To me, most important is starting at the departure station - there is more time to board and the designated bike space on the TGV is much less likely to be filled with passenger luggage. The Biarritz to Paris TGV starts in Hendaye with a short stop in Biarritz during which time I would need two trips to board - one with the bike and one with my panniers. To avoid this stressor, I booked a TER to Bordeaux, and a direct TGV train from Bordeaux to Paris. The trip certainly can be made in one day if the connection time works; however, as noted above, I wanted more time in Biarritz.

As it turned out, I’d had my full of Biarritz by mid-morning. It is a city draped along a hillside that I found not easy to navigate by bike - it was even hard not to get lost on my morning walk-about. Rather than hang around and explore the fancy parts, I booked an earlier train to Bordeaux and set off for the train station around noon.

The Biarritz train station is located a bit distant from the old port/city center, just shy of 2 miles according to my RWGPS route. The route had me going the wrong way on one-way streets, something I wasn’t too concerned about as many French one-way streets are marked “sauf vélo.” Therefore I was taken aback when a man stopped and yelled “Interdit” while wildly gesticulating that I turn around. Which I did, necessitating that I go down and up a hillside, rather than across the top on the one-way street.

No entry except for bicycles. Notice there is also a bike painted on the street going against the traffic flow.

Traveling with your bike on the French regional TERs used to be a simple matter of showing up with your bike and boarding the car with the bike logo. Now, however, most regional lines require a bike reservation during summer months and/or on holidays and weekends. Specific requirements and the cost for your bike varies between regions, but the SNCF Connect site is getting better at directing you to the relevant TER site where you can find out if and how you need to reserve your bike. While most regions require a reservation on certain lines, enforcement of the rule has been haphazard. In many cases, my reservation was not checked and the designated bike space overflowed with more than twice as many bikes as spaces available.

It was 3€ for the bike reservation on the Nouvelle Aquitaine TER. Their bike reservation web site had a lot of useful and clarifying information on what and when various trains required tickets as well as the different types of bikes allowed, or not. There was also a link describing their VéloZen bike service, which I quickly scanned but did not pay much attention to. Thus, I was pleasantly surprised to see this service in action.

When the train arrived in Biarritz, I made my way to one of the cars with a train decal but was re-directed by SNCF personnel to another car, one where a man with a green vest was posted. He helped me load Vivien George into the car and then confirmed my bike reservation, which I had downloaded onto my phone (this is different from your actual train ticket). The three bike slots along the side were full but the rear portion of the car had been converted to bicycle space - green tarps covered the seats and bicycles were laid across the tarps. Two green-vested VéloZen employees accompanied the train to Bordeaux, helping others to load/unload their bicycles. When we arrived in Bordeaux, another VéloZen attendant was at the station helping to unload the bikes. Although I was a bit nervous when I saw VG perched across the passenger seats, it all went very smoothly. And it seemed well worth the 3€ to minimize stress and bicycle overcrowding during high season for bike touring.

Vivien George in the converted bike space - she was later moved to the normal bike space when a spot became available

A VéloZen attendant and the temporary VéloZen bike section. Sorry for the blur, the train had departed and I was being hurried to my seat.

Here's another shot - more in focus but missing the smiling attendant

I wondered if you had to make a reservation for your surfboard

There were also VéloZen attendants at the station to help offload your bike

When I boarded the TGV in Bordeaux, it was evident that SNCF was paying closer attention to the needs of bike travelers. The space for bikes was well-marked with bright blue signs and a retractable belt across the opening, all indicating the space was reserved for bikes. For the first hour, another cyclist and myself were the only passengers in the bike car. He disembarked in Poitiers with his bike and the train quickly filled up with adults in bright pink tee shirts and excited youngsters hauling backpacks. After some questioning, I learned that all were off for three weeks of summer educational camp. The camps were part of a nationwide program under the auspices of the French Department of the Environment.

I spoke at length about the program with Anna, one of the counselors. Essentially, the organization known as CGCV coordinates educational group camps for children 5-17 that “promote social, professional and territorial diversity.” The camps are held throughout the world (Anna was leading a group trip to South Africa) and costs are on a sliding scale based on family resources. The students and counselors on my train were on their way to Paris where they would assemble later that day with participants from all of France at Stade de France, located just outside the city. After sorting themselves into their various groups, they would depart for their final destination and what I’m sure will be an extraordinary and potentially life-changing experience.

It was cool and rainy when I arrived in Paris, a marked change from my weeks in southwest France. Traffic was light and I quickly covered the short distance between Gare Montparnasse and my apartment.

I was ready for some much needed rest but knew I would soon be planning my next adventure.

Today's ride: 3 miles (5 km)
Total: 1,114 miles (1,793 km)

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