To Mirepoix

June 18, 2025

Today’s destination was Mirepoix, a place I've wanted to visit since learning from my nephew David that the town shared its name with a mixture of diced carrots, celery and onions that is a foundation for so many wonderful meals. There are of course a number of other reasons to visit the medieval town, but I developed a special kinship to Mirepoix through David and his love of cooking. I was excited to finally meet her.

The weather continued its warming trend but on the plus side the winds were lessening and the route was easing. It promised to be an excellent day on the road. I enjoyed a wonderful breakfast at the B&B, the usual French fare supplemented with muesli, meat, cheese, a hard-boiled egg and a nice selection of fresh fruit. All included in the 60€ price for the room – a great bargain at a very nice establishment. I stopped by the bakery on the way out of town for an elevenses treat and was on my out of Mirpoix about 10:15.

The day began with a gradual gain in elevation through the small commune of Val du Faby before reaching the only significant climb of the day, a modest four-miler to Col des Tougnets. The landscape had changed dramatically over the course of two days, going from dry and brown to lush and green. And there were cows – at least one small herd that caught my attention on the way to the top.

In Val du Faby - I love the shadows cast by the Eglise St Martin bell tower

Morning colors were greens and yellows against a blue sky

I don't know, she looks a little suspecious to me

At this stage, I'll pose at any Col sign I pass

I’d been closely following the Vélosud the first couple of days but made some route changes today, the first of which bypassed Puivert and its famed castle in favor of a more direct route to Chalabre. The heat was bearable, helped by the light winds that seemed to blow from most every direction. However, when I spotted a sign for ice cream as I pulled into Chalabre, I realized how much I wanted something cold and refreshing. I was temporarily foiled by the fact that it was lunchtime and they would not seat me for just a couple of scoops, but happily I could get ice cream take-out. I carefully cradled the ice cream cup and rolled Vivien George across the street where we found a bench in the shade for a mid-day indulgence.

The remaining miles to Mirepoix went quickly on a mostly flat, well-paved road with little traffic. I passed through the lovely fortified village of Comon and waved at the Le Chateau de Lagarde as I rolled by. Otherwise it was a beeline for Mirepoix.

Drying laundry on the main street of Chalabre. Given how hot it was, I can only guess that he needed clean and dry clothes in a hurry

In Comon, one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France

I arrived at Clos des Oliviers a bit early for check in and was graciously seated in the garden terrace with a bottle of blueberry lemonade and a tall glass of cold water. Lovely. After a bit of cooling off and cleaning up I faced the heat and went out to explore Mirepoix. The town was a visual delight - half-timbered building shuttered in a rainbow of colors; the green tilework and red-striped roof of the market hall. Not to mention the wooden arcades of the House of the Consuls that are adorned with a myriad of carved faces, monsters and animals. In addition to visual overload, there was a cacophony of sound emanating from family celebrations and exuberant children at play. There was even a band and parade.

Half-timbered houses border the town square

Carvings on the wooden arcades of the Counsel Houses of Mirepoix

The wide nave of Saint-Maurice’s Cathedral

To my delight, Rich and Robin Frasier drove over from their home in nearby Limoux to join me for dinner. We met on the square for drinks and then enjoyed a wonderfully long and leisurely meal on the terrace at Clos Des Oliviers (Rich suggested the venue, I just happened to be staying there). We've become good friends over the last couple years and was past ten when we reluctantly rose from the table and said goodnight. Or as the French would say, Au revoir, until we see each other again.

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Today's ride: 28 miles (45 km)
Total: 805 miles (1,296 km)

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