To/In Pau

June 30, 2025 to July 1, 2025

Escaping the Heat Wave

June 30

The Au Primrose is a hotel that caters to cyclists, especially those wanting to spend a few days in the high Pyrenees tackling celebrated peaks. We essentially ate all our meals together and talk of climbs completed and to those come dominated dinner and breakfast conversations. I so wanted to be part of it. But I gave in to the heat, realizing that temperatures in mid-90s called for Sensible Susan to take over.

I revamped my planned route and plotted the easiest and most direct route to the Atlantic, one that basically followed the Vélosud to Biarritz. The first step was getting to Pau where I could wait out the worst of the heat wave before moving on. The cycle path that had brought me to Argelés two days ago extended north to Lourdes where I could pick up the Vélosud route to Pau. There was also the option of taking a train from Lourdes to Pau. I made reservations for both me and Vivien George on the 12:14 train and loaded routes for each option. It would be a game-time decision as to which route I would take.

After warm farewells to Phillipe, Valerie and some new cycling friends, I wound a short ways through town to the cycle path, aided this time by RWGPS. The cycling was easy and a cooling breeze from a slight headwind provided relief from the rising temperatures. In no time at all, I was in the outskirts of Lourdes, “among the world's most important sites for pilgrimage and religious tourism.” I had no interest in religious tourism and instead headed for a bike shop/café where I could grab an espresso and maybe find a Pyrenees cycle jersey. Alas, all the jerseys were emblazoned with names and metrics of the celebrated climbs and so I passed, not wanting to claim a prize I hadn’t yet earned. I did enjoy an espresso as well as small talk with a Swedish woman who hailed from the same hometown as my grandmother.

In the end, I opted for the train – 30 minutes in an air-conditioned rail car vs 25 miles in the heat wave. Not a hard choice after all. I cycled up to the station and spent almost two hours watching a parade of interesting folks on their way to or from this religious mecca.

Though I was just underway, I was tempted to cool off in this Argelés fountain

I struck out on my search for a cycling jersey but did enjoy and espresso

Swedish family all geared up for a fun and hopefully safe morning of mountain biking

In the end, the train was the best option for surviving the heat wave

The Lourdes train station has several mechanisms for helping folks navigate across to other platforms - including ramps across the tracks that are used by the cart to transport people and their luggage

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Pau welcomed me with a blast of hot air and a non-working elevator. Thankfully there was a young woman camped out in the underground passageway between platforms who took pity on me as I struggled to haul VG up the stairs to street level – I originally thought she was a vagrant but it turned out she was just looking for a cool place to sit and was happy to help me out.

I exited the station, trying to find my bearings in the glaring mid-day sun. And then I came face to face with the funicular - yes, all of Pau was uphill. I braced myself and followed the bike path as it zigged then zagged up onto a large terrace with view south to the mountains. I snapped a couple of photos and then went looking for shade and food. Luckily I found both – a cold gazpacho with melon starter was the perfect antidote and over the next hour I stopped sweating and enjoyed eating.

My hotel in Pau was of the vintage variety – the kind that includes stationary in your room and newspapers at breakfast. It’s a little worn in parts but the rooms are modern and the AC worked great. I left only for a quick trip to the Carrefour to purchase some picnic supplies for dinner and to flash an Invader located just next door.

Who puts the fun in funiculaire? Not me!

Vivien George finds a little shade on the Pavillion des Arts

July 1

Despite the heat, my intentions for today were to explore a bit of Pau and visit the Château du Pau, which is now a national museum. Also, there were a few Invaders to catch. My wanderings took me through historical areas and down quiet streets that were just coming to life. The city will host the Tour de France in a few weeks and preparations for the big event were most evident in Place Clemenceau, the central plaza in Pau, which was inaccessible due to some construction projects. Possibly as a result of all the work, I had difficulty finding the “heart” of Pau.

Quiet streets and the towering steeple of Église Saint Martin

Names of TdF stage winner along the streets of Pau

My visit to the Château du Pau was also a mixed bag. The castle was founded in the Middle Ages as a fortification though it is most notable as the birthplace of Henry IV, who as king of France signed the Edict of Nantes that ended the French Wars of Religion. The castle is now a National Museum and I went expecting to wander around and learn a little history. It turned out that wandering wasn’t possible and the mandatory tour was in French. More surprising was that the museum was “Versailles-light”, displaying the rooms and artifacts surrounding the life of Henry IV and his parents. In the end, I escaped the hot sun and picked up some history – not a bad way to spend an hour.

Museum display of Châteu in the time of Henry IV

Celebrating the tortoise shell that functioned as the cradle for Henry IV

It was nearing 2 pm when I emerged from the castle and most restaurants were starting to remove lunchtime place settings. When I inquired at one place that looked inviting, they checked with the kitchen and then seated me at a shaded table, one which also benefitted from an occasional breeze. The meal was delicious and ended with a refreshing and tasty kiwi gazpacho. Afterwards, I retreated to my room and did not emerge until the following day, content with a dinner of leftover picnic fare in the luxury of AC.

Today's ride: 12 miles (19 km)
Total: 1,011 miles (1,627 km)

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Nancy GrahamIt is good to have a “sensible” alter ego that keeps you out of devastating, health risking heat! It is often difficult for me to find my sensible self, as now with a healing injury which may keep me off my bike for another 2-4 weeks!!!

I do so enjoy your blog Susan, and wish you a continued fun, safe, and cool journey.
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